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I've Smartwool, Patagonia, Kentwool, and others, but I bought a pair wool blend, and I don't usually go under 50% wool, Cabelas and they have been the best wearing. Not sure if you can still get this kind but they were low cost and not their high end.

None really, just pointing it out and wanted to show it is available for a good price. On the new one, I didn't find 8600 ES anywhere. A person may want to check for mixed container types and part number if buying more than one. They have 15W 40 of this oil for the same price.

For my Jeep 4.0 (tractor engine) on sale at Napa for $13.69. The containers are different, but same part number and specs per label except the SP, so one is older. Like seeing the flag on the label. Hoping this gives me a good intro to HDEO for the 4.0, and maybe I'll switch to this from others...

Strap wrench coming in from the top. Not fun. I do check from underneath that the gasket stayed in place on the new one.

Glad to see you re-powered, since these are such stout garden tractors. When the time comes, I'll have to look at all the options. I just bought some 15W 40 Mobil Delvac Extreme synthetic (read a long thread on bitiog about whether it was really synthetic) for mine. Price was a factor with $2...

I thought about trying 40, since right now, the mower is only used in the summer. There is the temp restriction from the manual to hinder that. If I went with a 40, Delo would be one to consider. Thanks for the links.

I know, and I tend to do that. Just like to make good decisions on things that could save me bigger money in the long run. I'm told this engine can cost up to $1500 to rebuild. I'm strongly leaning toward RT6 15W 40. It's pretty available locally.

Thanks again, and would you recommend a link, so I can read more on this to better understand?

Thanks for posting that information about these old engines. I end up adding maybe an ounce or two between mowings. I've recently looked at that gasket type part that goes around the oil filter to seal off the air that could come out of the engine compartment instead of going mature toward...

I tried to read about viscosity before posting, and the links I found said that multiviscosity oils are at the lower weight and then thicken or "prevent from thickening" for hotter temperatures. If they don't get thicker, how do they reach in this case 40?

I might try that, but would a 20W 40 be better? If the lowest viscosity started out at 20 and would rise to 40, it would match the manual which specs only as high as 40. It even allows for straight 40, but only of higher ambient temp is 68 F.

I'm learning, and thanks for that info. I wanted to choose one to reduce loss of viscosity between changes to avoid less oil being burned. The manual even says to expect more consumption with a 5w 20 (?).

I looked at the Plus 50, but it's not synthetic. I was hoping going with a synthetic would help keep the oil temps down.

Well, I'm not really sure. I'm just thinking it is probably hard on oil as these are just air cooled, and with this old of an engine, more fuel dilution. It smokes a little on startup. This is the best mower I've ever had, and really more like a small tractor with stout frame, hydraulics front...

Thanks for both responses. Now, I'll try to figure out which 15W 40 full synthetic has the best shear resistance. I'm still a little curious about 20W 40 oils, since that multi viscosity is given in the manual. The only ones I've found are for motorcycles, and higher priced, except less so for...

Well, I'm posting my first one here. I've got this mower with an 1985 Onan B43G engine. I've owned this 9 years (about 1400 hours on it), and always used 30W only in It-usually JD Torq Guard or Pennzoil. After getting more interested in researching oils for my F150 4.6L and Jeep Wrangler 4.0...