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This. When I had my 2006 MX5 (5 speed), I changed to this fluid and got smoother shifts. It kept the "notchiness" flavor of the old school but was very smooth, much smoother than original. Hope that makes sense.

+1 for Lubegard red. I have a 1991 Ford Ranger with automatic (A4LD). I got the truck with maybe 60k; it had a "reverse bang" which was not uncommon to those trans, i.e., cold start, put it in reverse and it would engage harshly. Once warm, not a problem as I recall. Shifting was okay...

I would have those concerns, but the particulars are important/deal breakers, i.e., how long did they own it before repo?

An engine of that era will have very low valve spring pressures, flat tappet or not. Don't sweat needing extra zinc, as it's immaterial. and having run it about 6k on non-detergent oil I also would not be concerned about. If it were 60k, maybe so. Newer oils are not likely to cut loose a chunk...

Sounds like a really good father/son project!! Can't wait to see the pics!

Those taillights do resemble the 1960 Olds lights. Maybe the 98s had them like that? My dad had a 1960 Dynamic 88 but it didn't have the chrome strips across the lens.

My SIL had a 2011 he bought used with maybe 20k on it around 2012 and it ran well. He got rear-ended a couple months ago and the car was totaled. Had ~180k on it. There were some AC problems early on but that was it. As others have said, that engine is fine, and imo, the CVT issues have been...

Why do you want to make the change? Both are good. Is the larger size of the Highlander the appeal?

If the sump capacity is 3X normal, it's reasonable to extend oil changes accordingly.

This.

First thing: do no harm. What is the API code on the bottles, e.g., SF, SE, SD etc., and how does that compare to the owner's manual's specs. As top-up oil it might be fine in a 4-5 quart sump but any more than that..... HTH

Rent one of these as needed. The rental companies maintain them. Being 25 feet in the air and having a sensor issue or anything else is not for a novice. No insult intended, but these are specialized pieces of equipment.

+1 on the cheap and easy. If that doesn't cure it, you're not in it for much. That said, I don't own one of these and can't comment on the life of the repair. You can clean the inside of the tub really easily. Any normal, household spray-on cleaner should work. I can't imagine needing a...

I thought his Song for Canada was extraordinary. Sad news.

I am going to date myself badly here, but it was about 1963 that one of the drag teams (I forget the name) began running the Torquelites in their Dodge drag cars, and winning. The automatic transmissions could shift faster than a manual, so elapsed times improved. Those trans were really stout...

I would say you're good to go with a fresh oil change. Oil doesn't evaporate just sitting there. I would NOT add Lucas or some thickener. Recall that engines in salvage yards for years still have trace oil remaining on bearing surfaces etc. even after that time.

If the concern is AC, I think I would look at tinting the windows (check with local laws on how much is allowable; varies by state). Also consider "screens" that block sunlight. My SIL uses the fitted screens on the side/rear/front windows his Altima and he said it's amazingly cool even after...

Lower the car just enough to keep the wheel from rotating while being tightened/torqued. Discount Tire and others have been doing this for years.

Aside from the smell, the used oil would have a lot of impurities...chemical and other, like sand, dirt, etc... that home heating systems would have a hard time burning without risk of clogging. Industrial boilers, not so much, and smell is a non-issue to them.