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As an owner of an early model GDI Hyundai I have to say a 2k oil change is not even a ridiculous suggestion. I do 2-3k and even with mostly long trips that stuff is diesel oil black from soot. A bottle of techron every oil change and use 5w-40 or above. I did 5k for the first 100k I owned it and...

If it never gets below freezing and you're satisfied with the fuel economy and power you get with 10w-40 there's no reason to go thinner. Heck you could even use a 15w-40 if one is available for extra shear stability.

2016 Hyundai Accent SE 1.6 GDI. 248,961mi, ~1900 mi OCI (I'm nuts I know). Out: Motul X-power 10w-60, Mobil 1 filter. In: Motul 300v 15w-50, Purolator boss filter. Believe it or not the oil wasn't very clean at 1900 miles and was full of soot. Most of those miles are either stop and go or...

Toyota pink is actually a phosphate enhanced hybrid oat coolant.

Obd II PID. I believe the temperature is measured by the CVVT system.

Motul 8100. The Castrol is pretty lame.

So I've recently been using 10w60 in my high mileage, beat to heck Accent, and out of curiosity I decided to see what the oil temperature was during my long commute, and to my surprise I never saw higher than 208°F, even on the highway it was averaging around 200°. Car doesn't have an oil to...

I've run probably 50 Pennzoil PZ 37 filters on my Hyundai, which are basically Honda size filters. The diameter doesn't fully cover the baseplate like a proper Hyundai type filter would. Never had any issue.

As a certified mechanic who knows other certified mechanics I can say most mechanics don't even know how viscosity grades work.

EPR is very good stuff.

Looks completely normal to me.

It's not really excessive flow on a DI engine it's improper atomization. Direct injectors spray a very fine mist like a diesel injector, if there are deposits it sprays droplets, and since the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder after the intake and compression stroke there isn't any...

I had similar results with the SP formula update with 0w-40 and 5w-50. I had to remove the intake boot when I was trying to diagnose an IMRC valve failure and there was clouds upon clouds of oil vapor coming from the vent tube that comes from the valve cover, almost like the motor was vaping it...

I think they have some sort of quick lane style oil change at that particular dealership.

They don't write anything on it but the mileage and shop logo, but as a technician who does hundreds of oil changes a week 0w-8 and 0w-16 are unmistakable. Even cold it's thin like antifreeze.

A plastic runner getting stuck in a plastic intake manifold isn't a death sentence for a motor 😂

I honestly have no idea why they do that, I just see every single car that comes through my shop with their sticker filled with 0w-8.

$400 for four injectors at 231k, $580 for a new manifold at 246k, everything else is regular maintenance items. I'm sure it'd be a much better decision to just tow it to the junkyard and dump $50,000 into a new vehicle. It's also worth mentioning I'm slightly nuts and you probably don't need to...

I just want to anecdotally state I have seen engines destroyed by low viscosity oil. There's a Toyota dealership near me who puts 0w-8 or 0w-16 in everything no matter what it calls for, and a few modern Mazdas have come in to my shop displaying their oil change sticker with wiped out bearings.

2016 Hyundai Accent 1.6, 247,078 miles, 1800mi oci. Out: Mobil 1 5w50, Napa gold filter. In: Motul X-power 10w60, Mobil 1 104 filter. Early interval due to a combination of an intake manifold runner failure leading to excessive fuel dilution (oil smelled like straight gas) and pretty...