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It's almost impossible to get a patch or plug to seal once someone has put that stuff in there, even if you clean it out as good as you can.

Most if not all Hyundai engines are extremely tolerant to higher viscosity oil and higher HTHS. I see very little difference in power or fuel economy going from 5w-30 to 15w-50, I also have lower oil temps running a higher viscosity.

Nope, many GDI/TGDI engines have this problem, HK takes it to another level and their engines are more likely to catastrophically fail if you aren't on top of it.

Sufficient viscosity and frequent changes are the key to Hyundai and Kia engine longevity. No oil is going to prevent fuel dilution and hard abrasive carbon soot from wearing you engine, but getting that crud out by changing the oil will.

With all those codes I'd first do a compression test before throwing plugs/coils/injectors/vvt solenoids at it. Also check the oil, low oil will set those kinds of timing codes, if the level is good and compression checks out (at least 158psi) then the solenoids are probably clogged up. The...

One thing I really agree with him on is you can't just use TBN to determine proper drain intervals with modern ultra low sulfur fuels. Between that and that engine builder from Nissan/Infiniti telling people if they want their engine to last hundreds of thousands of miles they should change...

Even my gasser has this function lol

If I've learned anything being both a mechanic and a rideshare driver it's that most people drive like an idiot with 1 foot on the gas and one on the brake.

*Rust belt enters the chat*

I had the same issue until I started using a 50 grade in my Accent. I have seen plenty of modern engines (believe it or not Subaru is the worst) turn their 0w20 into something the consistency of water. Fuel dilution is my guess

Wouldn't want innovative ideas and common sense dragging down the climate change discussion now would we?

Every one I've seen is a champ jobber ecore with a silicone adbv.

I've put thousands of ecogard filters on vehicles and only once did I have a leak and it was an old stock filter that sat on a shelf for years, gasket blew out on startup.

230k

That's reassuring, the tensioner is hydraulic but it's also ratcheting so it should theoretically keep tension even if it bleeds down. There's obviously nothing wrong with the timing based on scan tool data and very good compression.

Doing a valve cover gasket today and notice the chain seems a bit loose. It doesn't make any noise and there's no slapping marks on the cover or OCV fitting, no cam/crank correlation codes or timing codes. I know some deflection is normal when the engine isn't running but how much is too much?

I didn't quote it high actually I think the Mitchell book time was about 2 hours or maybe over a hair. Some cars where it's obvious I'm going to have a hard time I definitely will tell the service advisor to quote it higher or refuse the job if they won't.

0 consumption.

Yeah I wouldn't do it on a turbocharged engine, if it ever developed problems with carbon buildup walnut blasting would be the way to go.

Yeah it will but the entire backing plate and drum brake assembly will probably come off, from there you will have to chisel the hub off from the backing plate. Have fun and get your swear words ready. Last time I did one it took me 3 hours. Just be glad it's not a Subaru or Ford explorer.