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I think I cannot disable the governor, it is an automatic one. It reacts very quick to surges in the speed (when I engage the blades, for example), I surely cannot do this job manually. Oil is the designated one, W30, and level is correct, too. About the air cooled engines: I have had an...

Thank you again. No, the muffler is OK, no moving parts inside. I also tried to run the engine without it. Except for being loud, no change, same uneven running and hot. The muffler does not get cherry red as some write. It is more the engine that is too hot.

There is no choke, but the governor moves open-close. The exhaust is not black, only hot (but this is normal, I think). Yes, I will try to remove the muffler. To install another engine is indeed not easy and not cheap, in this case I think I would rather give it up...

Yes, this is something I did not check yet: to power the engine without the muffler. I will do it in the next few days.

Yes, I forgot to write: I checked this, too. The key is intact, and as someone here wrote, with this kind of mower the blade is driven by a belt, not directly by the crank, so there is probably no damage to the key if the blade hits some object.

Well, here I am. No news = bad, and bad news = good. No change. The same low power and getting hot. Revs sounds uneven, and warm starting is difficult. When idle, the governor moves close-open at a pace of about 2 per second. Sometimes I hear something like a stalling, or like a spark is...

Well, what I mean is, me too speaking for myself, that I learn from other topics and threads, this is what makes such sites valuable.

Yes, I will update for sure, I know how important this is for the others. Sorry, I did not have the time until now to do anything about it, hope next week.

Yes, you are right. I did not relate the shock that I sometimes get to the malfunction of the engine. I shall check the coil and if I find a spare one, replace. In one of the videos I saw a guy cleaning (filing) the place where the coil is attached to the chassis/ground with the two screws, he...

Right, it's a pity, otherwise I would have tried it long time ago. But, as someone here wrote, if faulty, they are always too long, never too short. Anyway, in my case, I am not sure they are faulty, because sometimes they sit tight.

The carburettor is new, but I will clean it again. Muffler.. how to check if clogged? Should I try to fire the engine without the muffler in place? Then, the possibility of ignition timing remains, but I have checked the flywheel key already, and don't know how to continue...

Ignition coil is either good or bad, isn't it? There is a spark, so it is good... If it were bad, then there would be no spark. There is no half spark, am I right? The plug, yes, I changed it already once. It did not show any signs of either too fat or too lean.

Ah, OK, that sound reasonable. Thank you. Well, I will continue then to look for another "troublemaker". The flywheel key is OK, just checked it.

That's right, I can turn them quite easily when they are open or "up". No, they don't have any side play. What I don't understand: does this fact, that they don't close on the second turn as I explained before, have something to do with the four cycles of the engine? Should it be like that...

Well, after taking opening the head and the small box where the valves are, I found something strange: at any first dead point, the valves sit tight. Then, as I turn the crankwheel one full turn until the next dead point, both the valves are so loose, that I can turn them with my finger (seems...

Yes, to check this I don't have to take apart all the engine... Well, this mower is a longtime project. But I still love it, it is much smaller that all the other riding mowers, it looks like a toy. The difference between men and boys is the price of the toys.

You are right. The mower has V-belts that power the blades, that means there should be no direct impact to the crankshaft if the blade hits an object.

Yes, and this is exactly my concern: I saw this video, in which they grind (shorten) the stems. But what if the stems are already too short? Or does this never happen, they are , if faulty, always too long? Questions over questions... But yes, as I wrote, I will have to go deeper into it, and...

OK, thank you. The diagnosis seems to be narrowed down to ignition times or valves. Both are quite difficult to check, as I have do open the engine for that. And yes, I will need this Ventilfederspannzange, long German Word for such a short tool ;-)

Thank you, tundraotto. Well, yes, valve adjustment is also on of my suspects, but this is probably too much for my ability. I am afraid I cannot full open the engine and then reassemble it again, some of the screws are too bad rusted, and spare parts are almost impossible to obtain.