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Summit racing installer, puller and balancer holder for torquing that big bolt down!

Originally Posted by exranger06 Replace coil packs on an as-needed basis only. If the car is running fine with no misfires, leave them alone. If one coil goes bad, replace just the bad one and leave the rest alone. 100% Concur. And stay OEM. In the old days, aftermarket might have been better...

Whenever I check one of my cars (mine, wife, kids, dads etc) and the coolant is low I throw a pressure checker on it. Pump it up the the pressure stated on the cap and let it sit a couple of hours. If it is the same, I dont worry. If it drops, time to start digging. Pressure checkers are under...

Excellent reminder to check those caps once in a while----- rarely the problem, but often overlooked ----- simple check!!

Originally Posted by Ursatdx I'm new at welding but becoming real good with my grinder. That right there is funny.... Part of the process I guess....

Originally Posted by Driz Originally Posted by eljefino Get a drill kit like this one and find the bit that fits. Then run the next bigger one through your main jet. If you notice an improvement but it's still not great, do it again! I had to do this to a brand new carb I put on a briggs...

Originally Posted by sasilverbullet Neither - if you want reliability, get a Honda or Toyota. Sadly, I have to agree with this... Key word Reliability.

I would just run a fan in the car overnight with the windows open (inside a garage). Would cost a lot less than running a dehumidifier...

Simple and does the trick - thanks for taking the time to share!

Bet that smelled good.....Nothing like fried brakes emanating from the vehicle....

A black plastic dash sitting in AZ sun in August has to get past 150F I would imagine... Question - Were you suspecting your heater core was plugged? If coolant won't circulate through the heater core in 30 minutes, I highly doubt more time will help.

Doors bottoms are a weak spot for most cars due to those leaky door glass seals. Sounds like you have a solid plan now!

Great thread. Next time I am going to scuff and paint the hat as well.

My 1986 GM 2.8 gave me the low oil pressure chocolate milkshake oil surprise one evening. FUN....

Very nice sheet metal Fab Sir! Based upon all that rust on the frame, I would say you have the salt situation just as bad or even worse than here in MN....

Originally Posted by Dave9 Meh, where I live they salt the roads just in CASE it might snow, and I've never felt coated rotors were worth the extra cost. Then again I don't drive like a madman, and don't tow down long, steep hills. If I did it might matter more. My only real concern is that...

I have been amazed at how long gm shocks and struts last. I recently took a couple rusty as heck shocks off of my 01 tahoe and they are still pressurized and seem pretty stiff. Look like heck though!!

When you are new to wrenching torque everything down to spec until you get a feel for it. When you are older, the "right" thing to do is to still use a torque wrench but if you choose to go by the feel of it you are now experienced and less likely to materially under or over tighten the fastner...

Wood is your friend. I have a set and trust them with my life under my Tahoe!

I have been using wood ramps for years and love them. I would set my whole family under my Tahoe and have a sleep over and not even think about a collapse..