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I'd say there is a chance, although I agree with you, it's pretty unlikely. We've had a few over the years that got burned by the bargain joints that ended up turning into good customers though.

Came off of a 2016-ish Infiniti QX60 with the 3.5 liter engine, 105,000 or so miles. Vehicle backstory was that it had been dragged out of a snowbank and had been sitting; We did some brake work, and had to replace a rear lower control arm that whomever did the pulling turned into an S, as well...

I've used Stone gaskets multiple times and haven't had to warranty any. Admittedly exponentially less usage than Felpro though, so a pretty small sample.

Our shop is affiliated with both Napa and Auto Value, a midwest independent chain. Both allow us to offer nationwide 3/36 warranty and are easily the fastest deliverers, with AV usually being least expensive, followed by Napa, whose prices seem to fluctuate based on number of dollars spent in a...

We've seen a run on Fel-pro stuff needing warranty replacement come through the shop recently too. A handful of sets of valve cover gaskets, and a couple of rear main seals as well. Decided from then on out OE rear main seals were the only good option, and have gone to either Mahle or Victor...

The piece in the center of the picture that's kind of rust colored is 100% a direct ignition coil boot. There is a spring that goes in the center that's the contact between the coil and the spark plug. I assume that's what you're talking about without any more clarification.

This trans does have a filter, however not serviceable without splitting the case. As far as drain and fill, the fluid level check procedure boiled down out of the service manual is to refill with "approximately 5 quarts of fluid", and then warm it up to between 180 and 200 degrees to check the...

The tube that goes into the valve cover is the fresh air supply to the crankcase for the PCV system. The vacuum source for PCV is an orifice built into the intake manifold between cylinders 2 and 3. The reason they collect water and freeze in the wintertime is because the vacuum orifice in the...

Strange, as far as the 2OMD007 is concerned i just typed it into both napaonline.com and Napa Prolink; napaonline says Out of Stock and the order button is grayed out. Prolink shows "call store for availability", and from experience I can tell you that Prolink will show all local stores and all...

No kidding. I've been using the 2OHY001 on my Sonatas for quite a while, looks like the last 8 in the whole corporation are all in Des Moines. 😒

We heard from our Napa rep a few weeks ago that Napa is going away from the Full line. They still have stock on some numbers here and there, but this particular number is out of stock nationwide as of right now. Sucks, we liked the Full OES line and kept a bunch, including this one, in stock.

2 Sonatas, 2011 and 2018, both Theta II GDIs. I run Napa/Parts Master (Ashland/Valvoline last I knew) 5w40 Euro, and run a 4K interval.

In my experience, the only reman engines we've had any kind of luck using at the shop were all sourced from OE. We installed multiple ATK engines a few years back and had them all back out for one reason for another; leaks, knocking, and low oil pressure among other things. Their warranty costs...

Yep, the next Pete Carroll

Something to take into account as well is that many shops, on a job with low or no parts margin, will matrix the labor and hike it up to make up for it. This would make the total profit margin of the job whatever said shop needs it to be, and would explain why this job has a seemingly ridiculous...

This was honestly my first thought. Usually vacuum leaks that are bad enough and engine idles high are 1) pretty easy to find, and 2) will definitely show up on a scan tool in the form of lean fuel trim, or in the case of gm pre-96 cars skewed block learn values.

I second this, looked it up in the service manual and it says the same thing, behind the glove box. The processor strategy on these cars uses the evaporator discharge temp to determine whether or not the a/c clutch should be engaged, and if the temp is out of spec it disables it.

If this thing still has a yellow dipstick in it then there's a better chance than not that it hasn't had the recalls completed that would make it eligible for the extended warranty on the engine; might want to check that out ASAP. As far as noise, the one we had go bad in our 11 Sonata didn't...

The 4.0 sohc engines seemed to have valve spring issues as well, have seen a couple over the years. Only way to know more would be a leak down test and probably partial teardown to see what broke. It all comes down to how much it's worth to you to find out what's really wrong.

100% the inner CV joint is separated, and all the leverage in the world won't force it. If you want any chance of saving the joint your best bet is to get the CV nut off and pull the axle out of the knuckle, and if you're lucky you might be able to get the inner joint to line up and slide back...