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190E SOHC 2.3-8V would do 125mph no prob. Would be surprised if any new Benz sedan wasn't capable of reaching its 155mph limiter.

They actually do include a silicone squeegee with the more expensive kits. I've had very good results with Dr. Colorchip. The color isn't always a 100% perfect match but neither are dealer touch-up paints in most cases. I imagine some are closer than others. Just got a promo code email today for...

From my recollection it was around the 2008 when cat conv theft became rampant. Coincides with the precious metal boom from the great recession and the cordless sawzall.

Mercedes W202 or W210 with either I6 or V6 are very reliable, easy to work on, and a very nice driving vehicle when sorted.

Yes, IMO you're doing a good job. The large flat panels (roof and outer door skins) are the most prone to excessive resonance, so they're the most effective areas to treat. The inner door skin looks well sealed and is convoluted, so I don't think there is much to be gained by adding Dynamat to...

Even where CCF is effective as a sound blocker such as weather stripping and ear plugs (because in these applications it completely fill voids what would otherwise be open), they are less effective at blocking low frequencies than high. Anyone who's worn ear plugs has experienced this.

That's why two-part clear is recommended. It dries hard like the clear coat on the car, last a very long time, and require only minimal maintenance. The hardware store clear used in the Chris Fix video will not have that sort of longevity.

If you think lining your doors with 1/2" CCF has blocked low frequencies then keep doing it, but that's scientifically impossible. The frequencies are too long to be blocked by 1/2" foam. You also have a fundamental misunderstanding of what Dynamat does.

People could learn a lot from what OEMs do to make the interiors of their cars quiet without the use of products from the aisles of Home Depot. Look at the outer door skins of a new S-Class. They will have butyl damping, but it won't be lined with CCF.

A thin layer of foam will not provide any attenuation or sound blocking. Cover an open window with the same material and see what good it does.

Doesn't matter what kit or method you use. Once the lights have yellowed and been sanded the UV protection is gone and the polycarbonate will oxidize and yellow again in far less time than they originally did. You have to clear over them with 2-part clear coat if you want them to last.

Throwing foam in the door won't do anything but collect rain water. If anyone is interested in lessening road noise this site is currently the most comprehensive resource I'm aware of. https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/reference-information/

If you have a buffer and polishing compound the kits are a waste of time. Wet sand 600, 1200, then buff out.

If it were me, I'd just leave the stock paper cone tweeters in there if it sounds good now. Adding tweeters with no level control is a crap shoot. Will likely end up being too bright and shrill.

Originally Posted by gathermewool It's worse! 5" in a 6X9" opening! Bear in a mind the listed diameter of a speaker includes the mounting flange. A 6.5" speaker will have a roughly 5" cone.

If it's not too difficult a job I would try the used spare. And consider that if you have to replace aftermarkets twice before an OE would go you're still $300 ahead.

Low end aftermarket speakers are usually pretty sensitive designed to work well enough with headunit power. Also increasing the size of the diaphragm from 6" to 6x9" increases efficiency as well.

That cube socket or needle nose don't work on VW rear calipers, or at least not well. They require a lot of force while being twisted in.

Other than being concerned about the battery running flat a car should have no problem sitting over a month without being start and run.

Many manufacturers don't produce an applicable product and their application guides recommend the next closest thing they offer. Doesn't mean it's 100% compatible, and this is not limited to fluids.