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I haven't seen many UOAs for this engine, but copper does seem high to me, but maybe that's just where the 392 (6.4L) sits for copper.

I have always suspected these engines, the 1.5T and 2.0T, would have lower fuel dilution with the manual transmission vs the automatic since the RPM would generally be higher. I always assumed was because they were running relatively high load (high injector duty cycle for the rpm) at low rpm...

It’s more like a continuation, it doesn’t start burning outside combustion chamber. The ignition timing is just delayed enough that the power stroke isn’t long enough to extract as much heat out of combustion. So more goes out the exhaust and to the catalytic converter.

I think our engines just put less heat into the oil than most anticipate when you're just driving normally and the convective heat transfer in cold weather really limits how high oil temps get.

I had a similar tread about a similar result on my CX-50.

VGTs have been around for ages in diesel applications. They are becoming more common in gasoline applications. I doubt the VGT is going to be the limiting factor from a reliability standpoint on this engine.

I think The Drive is the only outlet to describe it as laggy from the reviews I have watched and read. I think most reviewer say it is fine. Which is about all we can expect from this engine in something the size of a Grand Cherokee. I will probably be curious enough to go test drive a Grand...

Looking at the window sticker for a few Buick Envisions from that era, it looks like the 2.0L LSY is produced in Mexico then shipped to China to final assembly.

Some oils are better able to hold there viscosity from fuel dilution. Whatever the dealer used was quite thin by the end of this OCI.

Looks good! Is this how far the OLM let you go before hitting zero? Or did you run past zero?

The CX-90 is one of the vehicles I will be considering to replace my CX-50 when the time comes. I think I would stick with the mild-hybrid with the 3.3L I6. But I also think the PHEV might be worth taking a little at too while you’re there and do the cost calculations for yourself on it.

Most of the engines with high compression ratios like 13:1 will never actual achieve that while running, i.e. the Atkinson cycle. I know my Mazda with the 2.5 N/A engine has a static 13:1 compression ratio, but while running, it never actually achieves that compression ratio.

For a teen driver, I would probably stay away from a diesel. A mistake at the fuel pump can get expensive, plus the drive cycle of a teenage probably wouldn't be ideal for the diesel after-treatment system.

Thought these graphs would be relevant to this thread. This is the engine out smoke (i.e. soot) for a 2015 BMW N57. This testing was conducted by the EPA a while back. While it most likely doesn't complete align with the calibration of the 6.6L Duramax. I do have a feeling it is probably a good...

My previous employment made me know just enough to be dangerous with diesel combustion and aftertreatment knowledge. And my exposure was mostly in automotive space, so "smaller" engines for diesels with all the aftertreatment, DOC, DPF, SCR & ASC. What you're saying here makes perfect sense with...

Are you talking on a BSNOx or a total engine out amount? I have always thought diesels tend to lean toward more NOx production at the top end of the torque curve given the increase in in-cylinder temperature and always oxygen rich combustion environment.

That could be a factor in the fuel dilution. I know when I don't get the engines in my cars hot before taking a sample the fuel dilution comes in higher.

Heat is the typical mode of deactivating a catalytic converter. Oil can do it but isn’t the main reason. When testing catalytic converters, they are all aged with heat to there end of life condition. So your choice of oil most likely isn’t gonna matter unless you’re burning tons of oil.

The wear metals don't give me any concerns. Fuel Dilution appears to be high, but the viscosity held up quite well for having +5% fuel dilution. The hybrid system probably doesn't the oil any favors on removing the fuel dilution. Did you have the oil fully warmed up for awhile before changing...

Thanks for posting, its always nice to nice newer engines on here. Wear metals look fine, but that oil is getting real thin. Good thing you changed it. Hopefully the Kirkland oil holds up better to the fuel dilution than whatever the dealer was using.