Search results

I believe lots of states have a rule where you are supposed to use your hazard flashers if you are driving 20MPH under the speed limit.

Were you ever able to datalog any of the engine management parameters to see what was actually happening with fueling? I.E. STFT, LTFT, adaptive learning etc. Did you ever test the Ethanol % of the final fuel mix you ran?

My outdoor GFCI outlets go bad every 4-5 years and they are in the outdoor weather enclosures. They trip with nothing plugged into them, I replace then and all is good again. I'm 5 blocks from salt water though.

Haven't ever owned any larger than what I presently have: 5.8L (2013 GT500) 5.6L (Armada) 5.4L 2V Triton(x2)

Find a station that sells E85...not flex fuel...E85. Pour that in there, let sit then vacuum out while still liquid. Rinse and repeat as necessary. I'm sure brake cleaner would also work, would just be more expensive and potentially more corrosive to engine internals.

I have an aftermarket HV oil pump on my 5.4 and I run 820S filters on it. I always have 50+PSI of oil pressure and on cold starts it is 90PSI. I don't beat on it until it is fully warmed up but that looks like a severe over pressurization to me...but I would have thought it would blow out the...

All the oils on the UOA had plenty of life left and could have gone longer. I didn't note the difference in AL as well in the report. In actuality we're talking about parts per million, there isn't a practical difference between 5 and 15. I think you would be fine to go to 300Hrs on either oil...

Fe is half the amount with Kirkland as M1, everything else looks on par hour vs hour. If you plan to stick with 200hr changes I think I would stick with Kirkland.

That is an Eaton supercharger so the GM supercharger oil will be fine.

Although my well is 240ft deep, the pump sits at 50ft.

Always have to start with your loads...so we need the specs on the window AC unit (which I assume is 110V)

What type and weight of oil are you using for the break-in?

I didn't think the PS 7.3s were wet sleeves, they are just cast iron blocks like the gas mod motors of the time were, they don't have sleeves like some other diesels do... BUT John Deere makes some coolant that is highly regarded in the Diesel community.

2015-2020 had the issue due to the cooling channel which is cut between the cylinders but I would run an oil designed to help prevent LSPI, let it warm up before you beat on it and not worry about it.

3 of 3 of mine do.

Engines not designed as flex fuel vehicles will be limited as to the % of Ethanol they can run, some reasons below: - fuel lines not stainless steel - fuel filters use glue in the paper element which ethanol will eat - fuel injectors not large enough and don't have stainless internals necessary...

:ROFLMAO: Don't have a flashing caution light in the county yet.

It is 25 miles to the nearest one for me and I like it that way. It was once inconvenient to live in a county in which I could not buy a pair of jeans in...but with the advent of online ordering a little pre-planning goes a long way.

Are you not a NC transplant from some far North place?

Any town that has its own walmart is not a small enough town.