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I'm not so sure that I agree about huge correlation with idle hrs, other than that is addt'l wear that doesn't add mileage to the odometer. Certain LEO vehicles may have also been driven hard. Maybe all are, I mean compared to a civilian owner who is stuck with the consequences.

You don't have any trouble getting insurance for it? In many states, insurance companies want at least rebranded... or to inspect it themselves.

We'd need a good picture, at an angle with a strong light across it showing the surface irregularities. You probably need a polishing compound for damaged clear coat, then decide if enough clear coat remains or if the color coat is damaged and what the vehicle is worth. If damage goes into...

If the vehicle has a salvage title, not even rebuilt (even if it was just something like hail damage, still need an inspection to issue a rebuilt/fitness title), seek a refund or price adjustment. Very dodgy to hide this from customers, I'd see if there are any google reviews of this car lot...

Yes, they have to be water soluble... the whole point of them is to dissolve in the snow/ice to make *salt*water with a lower freezing point.

If it's mineral deposits like lime, you might try a weak acid like vinegar on an inconspicuous area. Try not to scrub that to avoid more paint damage, apply to a paper towel and slap it on to soak. A drop of detergent in the vinegar will help it wet the area.

* I wasn't there* so I can't pretend to know exactly what was going on with your brakes on the Mercedes, but deactivating the ABS to solve a dragging brake seems very strange. If it worked, it worked, but one thing to keep in mind is that on some vehicles, the ABS fuse does more than just...

I'd be careful and pre-treat all junctions with penetrant. If your hoses are that far shot, you may have a challenge getting them off the hard lines non-destructively.

Keep it wet a long time to dissolve the maximum that you can. Spray it with water to get as much off as you can, touchless. Gently wash with hot detergent water. Clay bar it, folding and discarding it frequently to minimize scratches. Dry it and assess whether you need paintwork...

Magnet on a stick™ ?

Those snap washers, I just pry the corner up with a knife blade to create a gap, grab them with needle nose pliers, twist (washer itself at 90' to its flat plane, not twist on the hub stud) and they break off. The fluid is looking a little dark... I like to keep the reservoir outside clean, so...

Every topic needs a voice of dissent, and I'll be that. I never flush my brake fluid on some 3 yr or shorter schedule, and it has never caused any problems. I never use a special fluid, just whatever is cheapest or most convenient that meets the DOT spec per vehicle. Disclaimer - things I...

I wouldn't change the tires if you're selling it. I also wouldn't drive fast in rain or get it out on ice or hard pack snow at all with tires that age. Hardened tires can be safe enough for good conditions but it only takes one slip to ruin your day or worse. Something else I like to do is...

For fasteners I want a residue left behind. If my dirty gas doesn't have sufficient oil/grease content, I'll put a light coat on after cleaned. The exception is if the fastener needs threadlock, don't want a trace of lube keeping that from doing its job.

Forget about the age of the oil and focus on how many miles on it and go from there. If it's a valuable engine, I might pull the plugs and squirt a little in the cylinders before first start. Sitting for two years is the issue, not the oil itself. If the vehicle cuts fuel by holding the gas...

Small stuff that comes off, gasoline - far more often than not. Doesn't really make sense to me to use anything more expensive, that takes more storage, that I have less of, takes longer out of my way to acquire, etc. It'll cut through grease well, without evaporating as quickly as brake clean...

Seems like a stop gap measure where the crucial factor is keeping the (leaking) surface clean till that sets up. Probably beats spray foam! ;)

Usually true, but i did get a good ebay deal on a NOS Centric premium hub with Timken bearings in it. Box read "USA" too. I'm more likely to buy on ebay if it looks like a one-off part, someone getting rid of a single unit rather than a volume seller of same part.

FTFY No matter where the vent is, it has one but for years -> decades it has been a one way vent that only takes in air, not letting vapors out, until you refill the tank of course and have to displace the air with fuel.

Extension idea - yeah, BUT, if the purpose is a smaller tool, you're adding an inch, and probably losing some torque too, and may be floppier. What if you Very Carefully run the impact and hold a file against the ring to take off a little material? I imagine it would spin (stop spinning) with...