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try in the equipment that gives you trouble you will have to decide is the price difference is worth it

Try a PAG they have high smoke points BUT for NO smoke use a Moly or Graphite or Boron DRY lube.

ISO 220 would be 50 wt

PCMO will have better rust and water tolerance as well as sludge dispersion but lower EP or AW properties but in a low use/load environment both would be fine IMHO

they also add a TBN bump

1) I do not know what TD told Mr. Hass but I would not put any stock in anything TD has told anyone, LOL yeah +1

1 - Is this formulation unstable and will it oxidize / breakdown into acetic acid, other acids/salts etc? If breakdown is likely, is this a valid concern or it is on a small scale that it should not be a major issue? Sulfonates are a common rust inhibitor for steel and yes is old school they...

its oil bleed is normal

I think you need to get down to ? <1000 ppm water to make any kinda lube also what is acid number?

oil bottles are also plastic depends what kind the gears in question can handle mineral oil grease thats what lubriplate is made out of.

dont know most non stock finishes I have seen are cerekote, maybe cause works good but many colors.

the level will go up and down depending on where the jack is as per height, When down all the oil that is NOT in the cylinder has to go some where that is maybe why the level look low? Use what ever clean new mineral based oil you have NOT brake fluid, you have laying around its a jack not a...

"Their branded fluid is $20~25/qt and it takes 4.71 quarts. I've not been able to find out anything about this fluids properties other than it contains mineral oil and zinc alkyldithoiophosphate. But for a 1,000 service interval, I guess that's better than most." LOL for $25 per quart i would...

yes depending on oil type or use from esters to fatty compounds

me keep it simple a wheel gun like a SW model 10 or 15, 4 inch barrel 38 special she even may like shooting targets with it.

oloeo fatty chemistry like used for skin feel. slippery ester natural oils. May mess with low temp properties of which racing is not needed. deposits also

also why give a competitor any idea what you are doing.

depends on what protect means for: wear sludge evaporation cold temp seal swell etc

I have had to take a sawzall to the rotor and cut down as far as possible without hitting the hub then put a chesel into the cut and banged on it that did it.

40 cal is a odd ball I would think that would be the one that would be avalible I know 9mm is not.