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Yeah. I never had great luck with Ford's automatic transmissions. This one is slipping frequently. I put Shudder Fixx in it at the end of last year. Drove it briefly before storing it for winter. Seemed to take care of it for the short time I drove it. But it's back in full force. So I'm going...

I've got a 94' Mustang GT with AODE transmission. I picked it up last year, and I'm wanting to change the ATF. Question is, what type of fluid should I use if I don't know what's in the transmission right now (synth vs non-synth). TIA!

Wasn’t the moral of the story here to not trust a meth head? To be honest, I didn’t think much of it at the time. I took it with a grain of salt because I know lots of guys (very knowledgeable mechanics) that run full synth in much older cars. I just got to thinking, maybe I should just double...

Sorry. I really didn’t know why he would say that. I also own a 66 mustang with a flat tappet cam. So I know about using high zinc oil for that. But I also know guys that run synthetic in cars from every decade. So when the PO said that, I wanted to know if he knew something I didn’t… or was...

I bought a 94 Mustang, 302HO. 185000 miles. Near as I can tell, the only upgrades include a cold air intake, AOD shift kit, and 3:50 rear. The PO said to NEVER put synthetic oil in it. I’m just wondering if there would be any reason for this?

I recently got sold off the last of the Hondas that resided in my house. I have several quarts of DW-1. I'm basically wondering what other cars I can use it in... since it wasn't particularly cheap.

Yes, I like to stick to one brand. But synthetic is expensive. The Lucas 0w20 was on sale last time I needed an oil change. At any rate... lesson learned.

2014 Honda CRV 47K miles 2.4 V-Tec i4 Honda recommends full synthetic 0W-20. I'm normally a Mobil 1 guy. But I've also used Penzoil Platinum on occasion when they have stupid good sales. Last oil/filter I filled it with Lucas Synthetic. At 3400 miles, I was 2q low. Never has this car been low...

Originally Posted By: Driz In the last few years I’ve started encountering brake pads that are actually a boy too large across the tabs. The need a bit of careful file or grinder work to actually ride properly in the clips. Yep. I have encountered those from the big box auto parts stores. But...

Excellent info! Thank you all! The caliper retracted quite easily when I replaced the pads. I don't open the bleeder screw when I do brakes. Instead, I always loosen the master cylinder cap to allow the brake fluid some expansion room. I always grease the caliper pistons and any metal-to-metal...

I know this is generally a lube forum, but I trust the members' advice on this forum more than others. So... here it goes... I replaced the rear brakes in my 2014 Honda CRV a few weeks ago. I used Akebono TQ pads. Once every 1 or 2 weeks, the rear driver brake makes a groaning sound when...

2006 Honda Civic 1.8L ~95,000mi I've owned the car since somewhere around 35,000mi. I bought it Certified in 2009. I've just realized what a bad car owner I am (not by intention). I'm really good at regular maintenance, but I've never changed ATF because: 1) I had ATF changes/flushes on...

It's burning about 1qt every 1200-1500mi.

Originally Posted By: yst Have you replaced PCV valve? Negative. That's a quick thing I can do within the next couple days.

Short story is my car started burning oil around 100K. There are absolutely zero drips in the garage - so I'm pretty positive it's burning. I have scoured the internet looking for cause/resolution for burning oil. The popular opinion seems to be carbon deposits on the piston drain-back holes...