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Usually flaps and valves which can divert the exhaust gasses through various silencers or bypass pipes. These are stock on a lot of Mustangs I believe. It means that when being driven normally, they're quiet. But if you put your foot down or select a specific mode then things can be louder.

Every Continental belt I've purchased has 'Contitech' in large writing on it.

Well the Volvo is still marching on, now showing 153k. I've not been totally enamoured with how the Volvo handles in the twisties. I've owned various cars based on the same platform that were renown for good handling, and that had been my experience. Truthfully, the suspension was woolly at...

The only car I ever had that burned any considerable amount of oil was a 2003 Ford Focus with the 1.6 4 cylinder 'Sigma' engine. That used to always smoke blue for a few seconds after a cold start so always assumed it was valve stems. Maybe some ATP AT205 would have suited that engine more. That...

Always, every OCI. Snowfoam and high pressure rinse. If any stubborn dirt remains then it's cleaned with a strong all purpose cleaner or degreaser and a brush. I apply a 4% mix of Bilt Hamber Atom Mac to the entire engine bay for anti corrosion. Then while wet I apply a water based stressing...

Look like bits of timing chain guide to me! Can you get a borescope up there to take a look?

Engines in Europe that run on these oils will have manufacturer specified OCI's in excess of 18,000miles. And they're usually very reliable too.

I currently work in electrical engineering and design in the new build nuclear industry. I can't see my job being replaced by AI. When safety issues arise because AI missed it, who's to blame? Although, an awful lot of me does want to go back to being an electrician on the tools, I just couldn't...

API SL/CF and ACEA A5/B5.

If the Chevron was a C3 or A3/B4 oil I'd have probably bought 100 containers of the stuff by now. But as a 'thickie', I just can't do it. They used to stock M1 0w40 FS for ~£25 for 5 litres but that's now gone too. 😭

If you're lip is that big then it stands to reason that the discs are below their minimum thickness. I'm all for pad slapping, as long as the disc remains above it's minimum thickness and is still true.

Really? Just shove a big screwdriver in the inspection hole in the side of the calliper and push the piston in a bit.

I was just about to say this myself. I did recently replace the flywheel on my mothers MG3 because it had visible scoring marks, but generally we just throw a new clutch plate in there and carry on. We pad-slap A LOT too!

Do you guys have electrical immersion heaters fitted in your cylinders too? There's no chance the controls have failed on?

Your heavy pedal will be coming from the clutch mechanism and not the clutch itself. Replace it all.

It is a common problem, although usually the clutch pedal gets stuck to the floor and there's little harm to the clutch plate itself. This failure mode seems to be a little less common but I have seen it a few times when doing some research. I sent the following email to MG yesterday... I'll...

Are you trying to pull 'straight' out? If you're pulling at an angle often the friction between the input shaft and clutch plate will simply make removal impossible. Often in the past I've had to lower the transmission side of the engine a few inches to allow me to pull out straight.

Mini is neglected. My Wife nags me an awful lot to get it back on the road but I really struggle for time, often fire fighting doing things like impromptu clutch changes. :ROFLMAO:

One thing I've learned since I've had my EV is that unless you change your driving style significantly, the range is always spot on. I left Swindon last night with 104 miles of range, and when I got back to Bridgend travelling 88 miles my range was on 18 miles. When you have this level of...

No, but some of these areas it's all they have and yet they're protesting against it. And what if it works? Yay houses are cheap again, but there's no jobs to buy them.