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Update. I have over 1,000 miles on the fresh oil change with the liqui moly motor saver. It started to leak again, but it’s nothing like before. A few small drops.

The liqui moly actually worked. I’ve put about 125 miles, and it’s no longer leaving a puddle on the ground. It’s either the crank seal or a corner on the oil pan. More than likely, not the oil pan as it doesn’t have a gasket just RTV. Shocked it’s working thus far

I will give that a shot, and hope it doesn’t cause any issues.

I have an older Diesel engine. Have replaced endless seals, still leaking slightly. Common with these motors. Is there such thing as a high mileage diesel oil with stuff for old seals? Can’t seem to find anything

My manual states 90EP. Doing a google search, you will see a 50/50 split of people in the US saying new GL-5 would be fine, and the other half not wanting to risk it due to yellow metals. If you search on UK based forums they are very keen on staying with GL-4 in the stock weight. I ended up...

1995. It 100% calls for gl-4.

Land Rover discovery. Brass in transfer case. Both diffs and transfer case I normally use same weight. Out of stock. Had a stock pile of gl4 Castrol that was probably 15 years old

I mentioned conventional because that’s what I want.

I have brass in my diff, so seeking a conventional 85/140 gear oil. Any suggestions? All I can seem to find at all my local stores is GL5

You’re correct. Slight dilution, but nothing scary. Redline I would need to order, and prefer something I can just find at a local store. The people I race with, have recommend diesel oils. Not sure I feel comfortable with that.

My engine calls for 10w-30, and that’s all I use. It is a turbocharged performance car from the 90s, with no emissions. Mainly an auto cross toy, but I do drive it to events. So I have never looked at actual racing oils. I’ve just used Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30. It shears out of the 30 weight...

4g63 Turbo. Stock motor, but upgraded turbo. 400hp This was from many years ago http://www.forcedperformance.net/mm5/graphics/2019%20Miva%20Uploads/Forced%20Performance%20Recommendations%20for%20Motor%20Oil%20Legacy.pdf Haven’t touched the car till recently, so not in the loop with current...

It's been awhile since I've needed an oil with higher zinc, so not sure where to turn as formulations seem to change all the time. Not looking for a racing oil, as they seem to have no detergents, and need very frequent changing per my analysis in the past. Looking for a simple off the shelf...

The 20W-to V Twin Mobil 1 has been holding up great! It will be changed out once the weather starts to get a bit cooler though.

I went with the Mobil 1 v twin 20w-50. Shifting is back to being as slick as ever. Curious to see how it holds up!

Originally Posted by Bonz I think most oil manufacturers have a grasp on high temperature issues, LOL. Check to be sure the clutch is fully disengaging when you shift. You would notice that more on downshifts than up shifts, IMO. But the fact it happens after 300 to 500 miles on the OCI is...

Originally Posted by CT8 Why would the M1 be too thick? It calls for 10w-50.

I have a 2020 Royal enfield interceptor 650, and interested in some options on oil. I've owned a good number of bikes, mostly high dollar sport bike stuff. This enfield has the nicest shifting transmission I've ever felt, up until I reach 300-500 miles, and it starts to feel not as good...

Originally Posted by Zolton VR6 is tough on oil, but not picky. If climate allows, just use HD oil like Rotella or Delo, a 10w-30 maybe mixed with 15w-40. Change it out frequently until you need a winter oil, then use a 5w-40 HD. 0w-40 or spec oil is pointless in this engine except maybe...

2007 cayenne 3.2, I had it serviced when under warranty at the dealer and at random places since. Always full synthetic, Changed at 5-6k intervals, but who knows which weights were used. I think it calls for either a 0w-40 or 5w-30. Little under 200k miles, and still running great. Peeking in...