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I've used Sil-Glyde a lot. Never let me down. Picked up a tube of CRC Silaramic recently though, it's supposed to be like Sil-Glyde with tiny ceramic particles and has a really nice washout rating. Time will tell if it's any better though!

If it were me I would do a cooler line flush to make sure it's full of ATF+4. The friction coefficients in Dex/Merc and ATF+4 are vastly different and Chrysler transmissions don't like to play nice with incorrect fluids. That being said, I doubt you have done any damage yet. Just get the...

When they said it was suitable for summer conditions, I expected it to be a synchromesh clone. Something like 9-10 cst @ 100. But 12.1?! [censored]. I'll stick to Pennzoil synchromesh in my t56

My dad has a Chevy van with the 4l80e. He bought it with a rebuilt tranny/torque converter, but the torque converter was no good and they replaced it under warranty. He had similar issues once the tranny warmed up until they replaced the converter. The transmission temps would also skyrocket on...

Originally Posted By: rooflessVW Originally Posted By: Smoqueed Pump some warm water with some dish soap through it. Should get out [censored] near all of the old fluid. Maybe there will be a couple of molecules left over, but that's no big deal. So you'd rather have water and soap mixed with...

Pump some warm water with some dish soap through it. Should get out [censored] near all of the old fluid. Maybe there will be a couple of molecules left over, but that's no big deal.

I've taken off calipers and dumped the old fluid out before. If the brake fluids rarely (if ever) been changed, the brake fluid that comes out is really dark and full of sediment. It's kind of thick too. Not Lucas thick, but thicker than brake fluid.

I've never had good luck with reman calipers. My buddy's towncar ate one before the first pad change, my dad's work van ate one before the first pad change, and my GF's mom's rogue ate one at about the same time. I didn't change any of them myself (except the newest one on my GF's mom's) so I...

About every other year. Coolant is cheap enough anyways as long as you don't buy it from the dealer. I see it as cheap insurance, considering a heater core job can be real expensive.

Running a K&N? Would help explain the silicon. You've also got some fuel dilution in the oil. Maybe step up to an xW-40 for a stronger add pack that will tolerate the dilution. M1 0w-40 has about 1,000 PPM of zinc and phos each, a fat dose of boron, and a whole lot of calcium to help deal with...

Personally I would say [censored] it and just put it back in the next time you drop the pan. If you're worried about it, crack the pan just enough to jam it in there (and make a big mess), or install a magnefine inline filter.

I drain it until it slows down to a very slow drip. Usually just go take a little break for 30 minutes or check out the suspension and other fluid levels. If a friend wants me to change their oil, I'll give it about 10-15 minutes. Plus usually the car's hot, so it drains out pretty quick.

Originally Posted By: MolaKule Which VOA, the BG Synchroshft 75W80? Boron 10 Silicon 9 Calcium 18 Magnesium 2082 Phosphorous 1210 Zinc 1439 Viscosity@100C 8.19 Flashpoint 410F TBN 7.8 All other elements 0 Whatever the synchroshift II is. I'm looking for a suitable MTL for my t56 that specs...

Originally Posted By: swc so,you mean i can use both of them?i would like to know who's better one? I wouldn't say ones better than the other. Maxlife is usually cheaper and easier to source, however I see you're located in China. So I'm not sure as to which would be easier to get for you. If...

Just pour the Castrol 0w40 in, it's close enough to a 30 weight anyways! Now if you're just trying to use old stock up, probably somewhere between 50-50 and 75(GC)-25(TGMO) would net you an actual 30 weight.

The 0w40 is easier to source, atleast for me. I run Mobil 1 0w40 in my 97 firebid formula, she seems to like it. The LT1 engines seem to prefer a thick 30 or thin 40 weight oil from what I've read/experienced. I would use Castrol 0w40 if the Mobil wasn't in stock without issue.

Sorry for the necro, but does anyone have a copy of the VOA for this? I messaged OP, but he hasn't been active for a while

If you do decide to do your own oil changes and maintenance, which I would do, keep all of your receipts, and keep a clean detailed log book. I would also run the receipts through a scanner and back them up on some cloud storage service because receipts fade over time. Don't want them denying...

Last I checked, ATF+4 and dex/merc are mutually exclusive. You can't meet both specs at the same time. Apparently Schaeffer and Amsoil disagree, but I've read too many horror stories of using "universal" ATFs in Chrysler trannies. Personally I would only put in a licensed ATF+4 or use Redline C+...

Tbh the only difference between semi-metallic pads and ceramic ones I've ever encountered is the semi-mets I've used are loud as [censored]. Never noticed a difference in braking performance. As a side note, I've used centric c-tek ceramic pads before, and they've come with a GG rating. They...