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K&N clearly states that compressed air should never be used to clean or dry these filters. In order to remove loose dirt bugs leaves etc only the use of a soft brush is permitted.

You should use Watthours (Wh) while proposing an amount of energy for a task. Watts alone mean Power. :geek:

I'd wish but no

Never experienced nasty oil draining off my oil pans so in my case no. If someone saw pitch black oil in his engine after a short interval or nasty things under the valve cover sure, you could try one or more short OCIs

1100kms on Valvoline FE 5W30 (FORD 913D) on my lpg converted 2005 Ford Fiesta. Posting again because the first time the oil looked invisible because of being hot and super clean. This time took the photos with the engine cold. Engine is original, 256000kms and uses less than 500ml of oil during...

That's my 19 year old Ford fiesta 1.6 2005 model. 5spd manual.bought new. Recently got to 251.000+kms (156K miles). Converted to lpg at 201.000kms. Oil changes with 913-D Ford spec oil 5w30 every 20.000kms. 3 oil changes for the gearbox, one with Ford fluid at 100K and 2 with motul gear 300 at...

Yep , Motul Specs are always spot on as a guide for what an oil should be according to OEM spec MOTUL 8100 X-CLEAN GEN2 5W-40 Specially designed for last generation cars, powered by Gasoline or Diesel engines, naturally aspirated or turbocharged,indirect or direct injection, Euro 4, 5 or 6...

It is crystal clear that you have not read the instructions which states that this tool is not for comparing different specifications!

Ford fiesta 2005 (mk6) 1.6 Duratec/sigma 16v engine with 240.000kms total, converted to lpg fuel injection when it had 201.000kms on the odometer. Dipstick photo is after 5000kms on Valvoline FE 5w30 oil (ford 913D spec) after it burned 405 liters of LPG and 12 liter of gasoline. One photo of...

If I would not mind spending 50-100ml of new oil, then I would pour this amount in the engine filler when the drain stream is slower than my OCD can take. The new oil should push some old oil out in about a minute or so (I guess) then I would screw the drain bolt when the drain stream is again...

The is a motorcycle sub forum in here. But the question is (for me)... long, hard, and at WOT, why should one give a little scooter that much of a stress to the machine and himself when one could just ride a bigger engine and upgraded machine at a more relaxed pace, it would probably cost less...

Do not worry a bit about 40 degrees Celcius. I live in Greece and have the 300X which is now reaching 22.000kms. Before that I owned the last Ninja 250R which I sold at 78.000kms. I always and only used 10W-40 on the Ninja even at drack days with 42 degrees Celcius , or WOT summer highway...

Another one which is what I use in my CBR which calls for 10w30 viscosity, I should have mention this instead of the ultra. SN, JASO MA2 and 30 viscosity. https://www.motul.com/gr/en/products/7100-4t-10w30--2

But shell advance ultra 4T is jaso ma2 and SN rated.

Distilled water from my home dehumidifier plus some dish washing fluid for about 10 years now. Cost is practically zero, no visibility issues, no wiper blade issues. No trips to anywhere, home made free stuff.

After almost 10 years on bitog, it's 2,5 years for me.

913A, B or C are outdated and replaced by 913D, which is an ACEA A5 spec but stricter for long drain intervals. It is high SAPS formulation and higher ZDDP than normal. Also requires TBN to be higher than 10

This engine is not Mazda design, it is the sigma engine which is Yamaha design from the 1995.as already stated in Europe only 5w30 wss913D spec is recommended.

Motor or transmition oil is what I use in locks and hinges that were never or too long ago been lubed with exceptional results every time. Oil lubricates penetrates and even seems to clean metal surfaces. I saw the same results even with used motor oil. I also lube my motorcycle and bicycle...