Search results

The only air flowing past the radiator is from the engine fan(s). Same for the A/C condenser. Especially bad in a hot climate. Hot air from the engine just circulating around in the front of the car.

Update - I couldn't find a real data sheet, but the John Deere product blurb says it's compatible with "most" other greases, so I'll take that to mean it will be OK with lithium type grease.

I got a tube of John Deere polyurea grease, part #TY6341, for greasing control arm ball joints. I used a lithium/moly type grease on them previously. Now I find that there's a difference between "shear stable" polyurea grease and "conventional" polyurea grease, where the shear stable type is...

That picture illustrates why I used it for only one oil change a few years ago - I could not find it in 5-qt jugs anywhere, so the total cost was significantly higher than alternatives.

I've been using 5W30 since owning a Taurus with the 3.5 V6, even though the manual and oil cap demand I use 5W20. This is a non-turbo, non-DI engine, it's very quiet and has been trouble-free, and is just now coming off the 6 year powertrain warranty. What I currently have in my "stash" is 2...

Originally Posted by sloinker I've been led to believe that the darker the virgin motor oil, the more robust the add pack. True or not? I recently did a change using QSUD 10W30. I wanted an oil with the least vii, and that QSUD was near the top of the list. (See this thread: vii calculations.)...

In defense of Ford, my 2015 Taurus with 44k has not been making any suspension noises whatsoever, even though the immediate local roads to go anywhere are extremely rough (really an understatement). It's about as smooth a ride as possible on these roads. It does not have a PTU though (for which...

Originally Posted by caprice_2nv So they actually got worse than the early ones. Maybe double row timing chains wear out the bearings faster

Originally Posted by Jake_J There's nothing special about Subaru coolant, it's a P-OAT like all the asian manufacturer's use dyed to the color of their liking. Honda uses blue, Toyota uses pink, etc, etc virtually the same stuff with a different color. You can use any of the asian branded...

The Driver (1978) The 7-Ups (1973) Bullitt (1968)

Well changing the hoses would be way more of a PITA than changing the coolant. I used small diameter hoses + an fittings to replace original small diameter metal piping (runs under the intake) that was a problem, it's not the main radiator hoses. I used silicone just due to it's high heat...

Originally Posted by DBMaster This is a page from a manufacturer of hoses. I've copy/pasted the relevant sentence below. https://shorehoses.com/selecting-hoses-for-different-oat-coolants/ Organic Acid Based Coolants which contain Ethlyhexanoic acids, are incompatible with Silicone Hoses...

I recently (a couple of months ago) replaced some hoses with silicone versions in an engine that uses dexcool. Now I'm learning that's a bad thing - the dex has 2-eha that will eat the silicone? Does this apply to any type of silicone hose? The hose I used has two layers, the inner is red, the...

Originally Posted by Jake_J First of all with only 44k on your Taurus I wouldn't really be losing any sleep over the service life of your water pump. It's a design issue that affects a small number of engines at high mileage, Ford revised the water pump and engine to use a double row timing...

I recently changed to Valvoline semi-synthetic 85W140 in my 20 year old Camaro with a torsen diff. The owners manual specifically calls for synthetic, maybe so they can spec a longer maintenance interval. Before that was using Supertech 75W140 to try to fix what I thought was noise from the rear...

So is it possible the seal on the coolant side is lubricated by the coolant? If so, would using a stronger concentration of coolant, say 60-70%, keep the seal in good condition longer? Originally Posted by oilboy123 There was a study by I believe Chevron about 20 years ago. They showed that...

I'm using LGB because of a paper that was posted on here (in a different forum) about tests of timing chain wear vs different additives. Wear was inversely proportional to moly and P content, and was directly proportional to zinc content. This was one of the rare times when there's been actual...

Originally Posted by Olas Originally Posted by jeepman3071 A thicker oil won't help if they bleed down overnight. You want oil that will reach them quickly upon cold start like a 0w40. Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 0w40 would be better choices than a HDEO like Rotella 15w40. This is not correct...

Supposedly the single row timing chains on earlier models were replaced with double row chains sometime around 2011 (don't recall the exact year), and the failures have been with the earlier version. This was from a youtube video as I recall. I'm not sure how the chain relates to bearing...

Originally Posted by edyvw Originally Posted by neo3 Originally Posted by edyvw Again, go with Castrol 0W30. I would go with that except it only comes in quarts as far as I can find (on amazon), ends up costing about 50% more vs the C3 which I can get from walmart.com and pick up locally...