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It's interesting to read the comments about using oil. My 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L 5-Speed Manual never uses oil at all. 180k miles. And, like others, I always heard that it was supposed to be a workhorse of an engine. I drive it pretty gently though. The handling is fun, but it's not some monster of...

I was feeling proud of myself that I did it the first time in about an hour. But I later realized I somehow injured my ribs while twisting around under the dashboard and lying across the hard plastic threshold of the passenger door. They still hurt two weeks later, so now I'm feeling like less...

Yeah, I ended up using a Fram Titanium.

I finally managed to do the cabin air filter replacement. I used this video as a guide: I got it done in an hour, which I thought was respectable. Of course, the previous mechanic who had done this had installed the filter incorrectly. What is the point of paying people, who supposedly know...

I noticed the suggestion to shake the bottle also in some other threads about old oil. What is the purpose of shaking the bottle? Also, what do people think about probably about 15 year old 5W-20 that's been opened (there's half a bottle left)?

Oh, I see. I guess I could stock up on these, but at $16 each it's not very appealing. One advantage of, at least, of my car using a cartridge filter is that I can just open up the box in the store and look at what I'm getting (which I did do in this case). How do they date codes work?

Since I just posted a photo a couple comments above of a Titanium filter with the metal backing, that I bought at Advanced Auto Parts yesterday, doesn't that at least show that the first part of Fram's response to michael007 is true? That whatever happened with the metal backing being missing...

Oops, you are 100% correct. It's the Titanium filter. I don't know why I wrote Endurance. It must be the confusion in my mind from reading so many threads about oil filters today. You can't even get the Endurance filter for my car. I will edit the post to correct it.

Here's a couple pictures. Honestly, it looks totally fine to me and seems solid. I live in a hot, but dry environment, and it was always indoors. My old apartment sometimes, in a heat wave, got into the 90s (that place was an oven that could get hotter than it was outside). So I suppose that...

I went down a deep rabbit hole on this forum, trying to decide what filter to use in my 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L, and based on the limitations of what is available locally. I learned about Framgate and the change in the media, about microns, wire backing, flow rates, end caps. I think it was good (or...

Thanks. It's a part directly from Mazda.

Yeah, I guess I forgot I had it. It's been a while since I've changed the oil on this car myself. But then I went looking for my oil filter wrench and found it. I also have an new Mazda oil filter cap/housing, that the cartridge sits in, which seems to have the anti-drainback valve built into...

I discovered that I have what's probably about a fifteen year old OEM oil filter for my Mazda. It's been stored inside, though in the summer sometimes it's probably gotten up to 85 degrees inside (maybe even hotter if I'm out of town and not airing things out, during a heat wave). Anyway, it...

Thanks. What makes this filter so good, compared to the supposedly higher quality Fram Ultra or Tough Gaurd, etc.?

Thanks. That makes sense. It seems like if it was a valuable feature, building it into the filter housing makes more sense than just depending on who you happen to get your filter replacement from.

I have a 2006 Mazda 3, with the 2.3L engine, where you replace just the oil filter cartridge itself (i.e. it's not a spin on type). I noticed on Rockauto that some of the fancier oil filters claim to have an anti-drainback valve to help prevent dry starts, which seems like a good idea...

Thanks for the reply. I think it probably leaked a tablespoon or so. From what I saw on the undercover and the driveway. That between when I picked the car up on Wednesday and today, Saturday. I cleaned up the oil from the spot where it was leaking and then worked on the thermostat for several...

Well, I went ahead and had the mechanic do the rear main seal, when he did the clutch. I got the car back on Wednesday. I was taking the undercover off today, because I need to replace the thermostat and I saw that oil is leaking at the bottom, from where the transmission bolts up against the...

Well, by my count seven people have said to leave the rear main seal alone, if it's not leaking, and three have said to replace it with an Mazda part, because it's not a big deal if they've got the tranmission out and flywheel off anyway. And some people were equivocal, so I didn't count them...

Well, I have to say, it seems like half the people here think it's a good idea to replace the seal and half don't. And everyone makes pretty good arguments. So I'm a bit confused. Also, I talked to two well recommended transmission shops. One said, if it's not leaking not to replace it, but...