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Daughter just bought a new RAV4 hybrid a couple weeks ago, looks like the manual calls for 10k OCI but I'm considering an early first change, not sure because she's got free oil changes every 5k for 2 years so that kind of already is an early OCI. Idk, she's only got 500miles on it so I have...

I don't really have access to the car to do much work like pull the valve cover, bore scope, etc, so I'm kind of stuck. I'm just trying to help out my daughter in a jam. I talked to them, they're going to check it out with a bore scope and see if there's any signs of contact. If so, I doubt it's...

The above mentioned car just had the timing belt break, car has $185k on it, the belt had 90k. This is an interference engine, so there may well be valve or piston damage. Replacing the belt itself is going to run $1,100 even if there's no other damage. My question is, is there a way to assess...

I have that curiosity too, I have a '00 Road King with the older TC88 engine, coming up on 50k (all but 15k in the last 4 yrs), and I too find myself considering upgrading to an M8 bike, a Road King in my case. I may well just be paranoid from the inter-webs, but I have a tough time getting...

Originally Posted by alarmguy [ I get out on my bike to escape from the world. Its why I ride a Road King, same engine, chassis, same everything except all the extra stuff that I do not want. My thoughts exactly with my RK. For awhile I didn't really appreciate the spartan nature of the RK (I...

OP here. Funny how things change over time, I forgot I even made that post back in '15. Anyway, I ended up going to Mobil 1 Syn ATF in the primary, feels really good and seems to hold up great over a 10k interval. Costs more that regular old 15w40 but one quart every 10k miles isn't worth...

Yeah I'd like to keep the car 3 more years, probably 30-40k which would put the odometer at around 140-150k. I'd consider putting "some" money into it if it meant the car would become fun to drive again, which for me is pretty simple; decent over bumps, doesn't wallow in turns over uneven...

I get your point, but just to clarify I didn't want or ask for bottom of the line shocks, in fact I specifically said I wanted some that rode decent since I was planning on keeping the car for awhile and therefore willing to spend the money in the first place. I didn't know they were econo...

BTW is there a way to tell for sure those are the actual struts on there? I looked them up online and the look the same from what I can tell, but I don't see any other markings on them that say for sure what they are. For all I know there's other models that kind of look the same but are...

Originally Posted by Wolf359 Would have been worth it to pay a little more for the regular quick struts, not the extra cheap ones. As others said, you only put those on when you're just about to sell the car and you want something cheap. I hear you, the frustrating thing is that I actually...

I usually research things to death before I pull the trigger, didn't this time because it was on the fly in a bit of a crisis, and I regret it now. I miss my original ride, and as I said I'm thinking I have this car for 3 more years. It's not that I can't afford a new car, but I want to get my...

I always loved Don't Fear the Reaper.............now all I can hear is the cowbell in the background. It's the fever. Anyway back to topic.....................Dave - I don't know what you're talking about with the Judge Judy thing, or what the issue was (never seen the show). Someone brought...

I'm not sure on the quick struts. I forgot to add in my post, I really don't know much at all about car suspension, so I'm a newb in that regard.

As the title says, 16k miles ago with little forewarning I had my shocks/struts replaced on my 07 RAV4 2.4L with I believe Monroe Econo-matics, including stabilizer bar, end links, etc. At least that's what they said they installed, I can't see a label or model name on the shocks themselves. Due...

You haven't mentioned anything specific about your bike, but that said I'd probably use any of those in the primary except the M1 15w50 only because it's not designed for wet clutch applications. For the rest of the oil you listed I bet you'd be hard pressed to tell a difference among them, even...

I've used 5w20, 0w30, and 5w30 in my '07 Rav4 and can't tell the difference. At 115k miles now it burns about 1 qt per 10k, that doesn't worry me. However with this engine I always have the consumption issue in the back of my mind and keep my fingers crossed it doesn't becoming an oil guzzler...

Originally Posted by gman2304 Your 2000 RK has air forks. Both my Electra Glide Ultras had air over oil forks which is the reason for the shorter drain intervals. I'll change my Superglides fork oil at 50,000 miles.....if it makes it! Tripped 40,000 miles today on a 110 mile ride. I'm not...

I think that HD 50k drain interval is even crazier than the 6k interval. HD specs a 20k interval for '00 Road King, which seems about right for that bike, maybe 25k at the high end, by then it's pretty nasty looking. At 50k, no way that oil resembles anything most of us would even remotely...

Just 2 weeks ago I went through this exact issue in my Rav4 (112k), had switched to 0w30 and 5w30 HM but the leak slowly got worse over time. I finally bit the bullet and replaced the timing cover. And it ain't cheap once you add in all the "may as well do's" like serpentine belt, replace...

Add to that question the issue of back spec'ing an oil, and then dealers still installing the original recommended grade. For example, the 2.4L 2azfe engine in my '07 Toyota Rav4 was originally spec'd for 5w30, and around '06 or '07 was spec'd for 0w20 or 5w20, not a word about using a 30 in the...