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I have an extra bottle of Auto-RX already. Hadn't thought of using it. Maybe I will. Probably just a single basic application though.

After a week or two of owning the car, I've come to notice that it's a little ticky at dead cold startup. Nothing loud enough to suggest a problem, or even unusual for a car this old, especially a Red-Block Volvo. I'm only mentioning it because once the engine (and I assume the oil) is up to...

I may try the 5w40 Rotella. Or just the 15w40 in the hot months. Though, it has just been brought to my attention that my dad's car, mom's car, and sister's car all need changes, and they all use the 10w30 dino juice...maybe I'll just tell my dad to buy two cases of the 10-30 and mooch the 4...

The car currently has Valvoline (dug the sticker out of the garbage can, it was a Valvoline shop) 10w30 in it, which is the manual recommended viscocity. I was thinking of the Rotella 15w40, but winter is coming and now I'm thinking thats a bit much in the zero-degree temps we get around here.

The PO was using whatever a local oil change place was putting in it. Probably 10w30. It was low on oil when I bought it, and I found that the oil hadn't been changed in almost 8000 miles :\ I put oil in and it's not leaking a drop, so I suspect it burns a little...probably par for the course...

I just bought a 229k mile Volvo 740 turbo. The car has been kept really well, but is definitely in need of an oil change. The manual says 10w30, but to use 15w40 in conditions where there would be more oil consumption, such as towing or mountain driving. 5w30 is allowable in really cold...

Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch I've said it before and I'll say it again: If you could take the soul I've got a Volvo 240 and a BMW 535is...I've yet to figure out this 'soul' thing that other Eurocar owners constantly squawk about. As far as I can tell, 'soul' translates to 'fluids...

Huh. I just took a look at the AutoRX website. It looks like they've changed things since the last time I used it. Now they just say dump a whole bottle in and run for 2500 miles.

I'd probably buy an old watercoled VW, like a Rabbit GTi, I don't think I could be persuaded into a new one. All the horror stories, combined with me not being a dash-humper means I wouldn't take the risk. Most of the misery I hear about VWs stems less from the cars and more from the...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Shouldn't be torquing a gasketted plug anyway. I follow the finger rule for non-gasketed plugs. For gasketed ones, I just go by what the car's service book or what the plug manufacturer says. I still use a dot of anti-seize in either case.

I might toss some new plugs in anyway. The vacuum lines and air intake parts all have the flexibility and strength of peanut brittle...meaning I broke a bunch of them doing this...now the car runs pretty badly

That's what the inside of a BMW M30 cylinder head with a bajillion miles and a suspect maintenance history looks like. Not too bad. The reason I had it off was to check those two banjo fittings on my cam oiler. They were good. And here's the valve cover: So, what do we think? I didn't notice...

I just found this: http://www.bmwwikiwiki.com/perspective.aspx?action=view&page=bmw:OilChart Looks like these engines like a beefy oil.

Apparently most people run 20-50 in these things :o

Originally Posted By: dave1251 Shell Rotella 5W-40. 5w40 or 15w40? A friend with another M30 BMW says he has used Rotella 15-40 and is happy with it. I've used Rotella in a number of older engines as well, always pretty happy with it.

Well, the car isn't new at all. It's a 1988 BMW 535is with probably 220k miles on the clock. The engine is the 3.5 liter BMW M30 inline six. Runs great, has a slight lifter tick I think, but still fires right up and runs strong. It's winter here right now, and I don't have any factory manuals...

Funnily enough, I refuse to use spark plugs from any of those brands nowadays, except AC/Delco. NGK for me.

The parts are in the dishwasher now. What I did: -soak for a couple hours in straight simple green -brush -soak some more -brush -quick dunk in the simple green -hose parts down with CRC Throttle Body cleaner -brush/wipe -more CRC -strong rinse with the hose and a presure attachment -dishwasher...

I'm not made of time, here A friend told me that the B9 Chem-Dip, while corrosive, will usually take ALL of the carbon, funk, and gunk off in a VERY short time, thus you can get it out and rinsed before it can have any effect on the metal. Might be worth a try, I guess. I'll have to rinse the...

I'm not sure where to find it though. I may end up just soaking the stuff in mineral spirits