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Hi all, I received a letter from VWoA yesterday extending the warranty on my Passat's 1.8t engine if damaged was caused by oil sludging. The letter included a list of oils approved for use in the 1.8t that are available in NA. My confusion stems from how VW only recommended only one Mobil 1...

What's your opinion about a good 10w30 conventional oil being used in a small, high-revving (7000RPM) car engine? The driver, BTW, redlines the car daily. Are the good dino oils pretty shear stable in this application? Should the change interval be reduced to 3K miles? Should synthetic be used...

Let's say you're using M1 0w-30 in a non-turbo, with severe driving conditions. How fast can it thin out and need to be changed? If it was mixed 3-1 with M1 0w-40, would the change interval be extended?

What does the flash point mean in the real world? I thought it meant higher resistance to burn off, oil consumption, and sludging, but apparently not. And why do some SL dino oils have higher flash points than some Mobil 1 oils? Should I ignore the flash point altogether?

Would there be any problems mixing Pennzoil Purebase with Mobil1? Thanks

Just wondering, are there any non-synthetic oils in the US that meets ACEA A3/B3 specs? Pennzoil Purebase 10w40? Thanks

I have some Mobil 1 Tri-Syn 0w-30 in my car for the last 1K miles, but I'm wondering if I should dump it and use Pennzoil PureBase 10w-30 for the Summer months here in hot central Texas. The 0w-30 Mobil 1 TS was bought on the cheap ($1.30/qt on clearance) and it was great in Winter, but I'm...

Just wondering, is turbo the hardest on oil, harder than high revving normally aspirated engines. I'm thinking if an oil can handle a turbo engine for a given mileage, then it should handle just about any engine (except for those Toyota Avalon engines ). Agree? Thanks

OK, I know Castrol GTX and Pennzoil Purebase 10w30 have a HTHS rating of 3.1. Are there any conventional 10w-30 oil that does better? For that matter, are there any ??w-30 that does as well? Heck, are there any readily available synthetic 10w-30 oil that does better? (I know Amsoil does...

This is kind of inverse to the discussion about the economics of using Mobil 1 vs. a more expensive synthetic oil. Since Mobil 1 is such a standard here, let's compare it to an excellent dino oil, like Castrol GTX or Pennzoil Purebase. For the price of one bottle of Mobil1, usually about $4...

For a small, high revving engine (7000 RPM redline), should I look at a) HTHS b) flash point c) NOACK d) vicosity @ 100 deg celcius e) something else? Thanks (edit-fixed spelling error in title) [ February 09, 2003, 07:18 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]

Trying to be a good earth citizen, I suggested to my Miata-owning peers that 3K-mile oil changes are unnecessary with today's oil, especially synthetic oil. But several people replied that their Mobil 1 10w30 oil needs replacing after only 3K miles because that's when the valve ticking begins...

Just wondering, what specs are most important to you in determining what oil to use: HTHS? flash point? NOACK? low temp pour point? etc. Or do you ignore the specs and make judgements mainly on your lab results? Which also begs the question: do your lab results usually correlate to the specs...

Seems Mobil 1 is a favorite around here, along with Amsoil and maybe Redline, since they're the only true group IV oils now. I'm just looking for the least expensive group IV oil, which apparently is Mobil 1. So where do you get your Mobil 1 fix? I read that Walmart has them in the 5-qt jugs for...