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IIRC 02-05 Odysseys had AT Recalled & even the replacement unit had issues. I would make sure AT was properly replaced under warranty & it shifts properly before you even consider it. Take it out on a extensive test drive on FWY, sometimes slippage won't appear until scenarios such as high...

Remember: A $1000 beater isn't going to be worth $2000 just because one spent a thousand dollars fixing it. Fixing an old beater would only make sense if repairs are minor, or maintenance related wear & tear items. Once major components are involved & cost of replacement approaching 40-50%...

It wouldn't hurt to expand your search options such as eBay motors to search inventories from your neighboring states. I recall we use to see used car dealers from out of state bidding on old California/West Coast cars because rust is not a problem here. Consequently a 10 year old rust free car...

Well, this is going to sound a little biased & perhaps none patriotic. But my experience from auto auction in past has pretty much convinced me the best new cars will make better "used" cars, and Chrysler products are not one of those, neither are many GM & Ford products. Look for a old...

I worked at an auto auction for few years in my younger days, typically "older" cars owned/driven by retired folks tend to be well maintained, free of accident related damages/neglect, and have clean title. There're plenty of good choices for $5000, so don't get discouraged. But one must do his...

I remember those Sigmas had the worst trigger of any guns I've ever shot. Most people don't know this, but Smith & Wesson very nearly went bankrupt twice from competing for government/military contracts. Needless to say both times they failed miserably. But the MP Series shows more promise...

Ten days !! Tell them you are MAD right now. Originally Posted By: Chris142 So we had to do the California 10 day waiting period.

Glad to hear you are getting rid of a HiPoint though! IMO that's a glorified Saturday Night Special.

KelTec PF9 would be my pick out of the two. IIRC, both are rated for +P ammo so "duty" ammo would not be a problem. Food for thought, contact KelTec & find out if the new PF-9 is rated for +P+ ammo because you can push the 9mm terminal ballistics up towards the 357 Sig territory if the gun can...

I sure hope so. Coworker drives a Mini Cooper Turbo that is consuming a full quart of 5W-30 synthetic every 800-900 miles, and according to the dealer that is "acceptable" consumption. So my case isn't so bad even if condition persists, but I think I'll try 5W-20 at least once just to confirm...

You are assuming that I'm an engineer with mechanical knowledge I take it ? I am actually a Software Quality Assurance (QA) engineer. By claiming a switch to 5W-20 won't make a difference you are clearly over looking the NOACK % loss index btwn 0W-20 vs. 5W-20s at 250C. Not to mention there...

well, I waited 10 min after shut-down before checking it. Oil was full when we bought it & it appears the break-in process has consumed a bit more than I expected. I'm aware that 0W-20 are really meant to meet CAFE standards & IMO doesn't have enough viscosity for "Severe" driving conditions...

This came from my company car which is a 2013 Honda CRV EX-L with 2.4L 4 cylinder. The car came from factory with 0W-20 which I never was big fan of it. Yesterday I checked the oil at 1,000 mile mark & it took over 1/2 qt to bring it back to full mark. Thinking about switch it over to 5W-20...

Very normal. UNLESS you noticed a big difference from last OC to this one ! Consider sent the sample to BlackStone & have it analyzed just to be sure. Originally Posted By: slowdime Hello everyone, I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to oil and I'm here to learn from the best! I've got a 4cyl...

Don't sweat it. Just change it out to either 0w-20 or even 5w-20 next OC. Out here in So. Cal I don't even bother use the 5W-30 my car requires. I've ran 10W-30 on numerous occasions and NP.

Is there any particular brand that's hanging over your head that you're hesitant to use ? Perhaps we can help out if you're willing to share with us. Originally Posted By: Nick1994 I read on BITOG pretty often, people recommend nearly any oil, from every type of Pennzoil, Mobil, Quaker State...

Fixed. Located a reliable AC guy from Yelp who came out this morning & found out the "capacitor" was burned out. 30 min he was done. I got my AC back !!

Thank you guys !! I got couple contractors coming out next couple mornings to give me estimates for compressor replacement vs. cost of entire unit. I will definitely keep your advice in mind. Cheers.

Gents: Home Central AC went bad over the weekend & almost 100% the compressor is gone (locked up). Unit is a 14 yrs old 3 ton Amana Model: PGD36C0702E with Copeland Scroll Compressor. Am I better off replacing the whole unit or just replacing the compressor ? I've been told that prices drop...

If you can afford to, by all means keep your 02 Tacoma. That is a good year & needless to say a very good truck. I kept my Silverado & went with a Prius which is a "huge" change but I did it out of necessity because I got transferred & went from 32 mi/day to 98 mi/day. Consequently, 10 mpg...