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If you ask 5 car people how to break in an engine, you will always get 6 opinions. They all probably have some validity, but I believe that with most production vehicles, you can’t really mess anything up if you’re using some level of common sense. Even for those folks who plan to drive their...

Besides the spare tire well, it looks like the crumple zone barely took any damage. I'd feel perfectly safe driving that around. Great bargain. Enjoy it.

Purchased a 2.0T with 6-speed manual back in April, 2020. I am happy with it overall. Tried the CVT version first and said, no way. Felt anemic and unresponsive. I can see how a disciplined driver would benefit from fuel efficiency with a CVT, but it was just too boring and disconnected for me...

I'm curious why you're using an ozone generator for the interior. Were they smokers? Or just killing off stinky old car smell?

Consistency is key in an experiment this scientific. For example, check while the car is parked in the exact same location, and the engine is stone cold - every single time. That is your best baseline for accuracy. Temperature is a whole other matter, but that isn't always practical unless in a...

Used to have an ‘04 Mazda 6. Bought new. Racked up 197k until it quit. Absolute beater toward the end. It was running on pure pride. -Sagging headliner. -Rusted hood and fenders. -Various fluid leaks. -Clutch chatter/ squeal -Factory original suspension which was shot, but too rusted to...

Unless testing of data were made case by case, and engine specific, then there is no “one size fits all.” The big takeaway here is that eventually bad things begin to happen with an engine that is ACTUALLY overfilled. Maybe the Toyota can take on an entire extra quart, but the Ford pickup can’t...

Thank you for the feedback. It might be a while before I can determine if there is a fuel contamination problem, but I will likely sample again after this season, and the next. Every fill except this one has been with Honda GN-4,10w-30. Aside from that, absolutely nothing else has changed with...

Riding for 5000 miles was a long interval - granted. However, since 3000+ mile runs (with plenty of hard driving) have proven to be acceptable using conventional GN4, I decided to give Rotella the old college try for a longer run. It seems to be a highly-regarded oil in the moto community. So...

I am realizing now that this should have been posted in the motorcycle UOA section... Anyway, the 2012 CBR calls for 10w-30, for whatever that's worth. I had been using Honda GN-4 10w-30 all along until trying out T6. My only real complait was that the T6 seemed to make the clutch feel a bit...

Here are the UOA numbers of Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 for a 2012 Honda CBR1000RR. The oil spent one year in the engine (August, 2016 - August, 2017), and accumulated just over 5000 miles. Driving style was mixed between "normal" and spirited, and included one track day on this fill. Here are the...

Now I have to doubt the integrity of Blackstone? Ugh What's this world coming to? Honda calls for an OCI of 8000 on the CBR with 30wt. I'm haven't gone much past 3000 yet, but I'm tempted to go for much more if I can be confident enough of good protection, good shift quality & clutch feel...

No kidding... Well where do they sell cheaper toilet paper??

Posted some UOA's. GN4 seems to be a decent oil in and of itself. It will be interesting to see how the T6 compares to the base line. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...-30#Post4361715

Snipping an image of the PDF is the best I could do for this. The Blackstone comments are always amusing. Also, my name is not really Johnny.

Here are a set of UOA's from every oil change since the bike was new. Every fill was Honda GN4 10w-30. The oil was sampled for the sake of my own curiosity. None of them are terribly exciting, but maybe worth sharing.