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With synthetic, you'd be fine changing it every two years - that's only 4000 miles. Even dino would likely do that, just keep it topped off.

I'd run the 0W-20 that's spec'd, but if you feel you have to run the 5W-30, I'd stick with Full Synthetic and let the OLM run to zero. I use 0W-20 PP in my Dart - no issues. I use the OEM Mopar filter and double stint it.

She has one of the best and most expensive oils made. Just keep it topped off and follow the OLM - even that is likely conservative. Check her tire pressure.

Just change it every 5k on dino SuperTech - especially with all your highway driving. keep it topped off between changes and you'll be fine. Oil filter doesn't matter - SuperTech or cheap Fram is all you need.

Nice job jakewells spotting that and snapping the photos. I've not seen it myself yet but haven't been in Walmart in a month or so. Now we just need PQIA to test it.

I'd be more worried if the valves were making noise when it's warm. It's probably been sitting for a while so give it time. I'd do a short 2000 mile oil change and then switch to a high mileage oil that readily available. Big picture - quiet and runs well when warm is good.

That was me and it was a 92 Suburban Big Block that went 5 years. Less than 1800 miles though. I don't know if I'd stretch an extended multi year OCI to 7,000 miles. 5k would probably be my limit. My 99 Aurora is 8 years into a change now with only about 1,000 miles - OCI planned at 10 year mark...

Chevron must be making a push. My local Costco now stocks Havoline dino in 5W & 10W-30. Formula Shell, which was stocked for many years, is now gone.

Originally Posted By: Slick17601 Both of my vehicles are severe short trippers. I change the Pennzoil Platinum every 6 months and sleep well. I change my BBC Suburban oil every 5 years and I sleep well too. My 99 Aurora is going on 8 years w/o a change although I plan to drive it more this...

If you aren't racing it I'd change it every 5000 miles at your minimal driving rate - especially with 8 quarts. Even if it took 10 years. If you haven't gone 5k miles in 10 years, go ahead and change it. I'm assuming the car is garaged. Here's my Suburban UOA after 5 years...

Great post - lots of #'s to dive into. Maybe include a breakdown of the previous oil acronyms. Thanks!

Kudos to Valvoline - well thought out design. The other suppliers will eventually follow.

#'s look good. Your 3k OCI plan sounds reasonable if you're sticking with E85.

Keep doing what you're doing. 5k OCI should work fine if you keep it topped off. You don't need to use any additives, just fresh oil at OCI time. Those slant 6s are very tough, I raced one in a Gremlin back in 1978 - it was a 6 Hour race at Road Atlanta. We started 40th something and chugged our...

Oil pan heater is all you need. Your oil is fine. Skip the additives in the future. Plug a trickle maintenance charger in at the same time to give the battery a boost at startup.

Nice - more proof miles (and run time) are what matter - not sump time. Good post. I've got a 99 Aurora going on 7 years with M1 and don't plan to change it anytime soon. Only about 1000 miles on it so far.

#'s look fine to me. I guess some of these fuel dilution critics never drove a carburetor car - talk about running rich! Even they lasted hundreds of thousands of miles with [censored] oil back in the day. OP - just keep that baby topped off and keep doing what you're doing. It will be fine.

No synthetic - use HM 10W-30 or 40. Or some HDEO as suggested by Linctex above. just keep it topped off and change it every now and then and you'll be fine. Those old 350s are really hard to kill.

Just teach him to make sure it stays topped off. Once a year with anything meeting API SN should be fine.

I think all the 5W-20 stuff on Chevys has now been changed to 0W-20. My local dealer only has bulk 0W-20 Dexos blend, 5W-30 Dexos blend and 5W-30 non Dexos. If they need anything other than that (like full synthetic), the tech has to walk into parts and get bottles.