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Yeah just optical illusion

Yeah lifter preload, turned until resistance on the pushrod then 1/2 turn more

Hahaha Yeah the truck was a great deal, I'm gonna run it until it dies then swap in a 4.6 or 5.3 LS based drivetrain

Nope, cranked it over to set the lash, but didn't run

Ah that's a thought maybe it's the manifold I didn't see any soot trails but it's so oily under there from the valve covers maybe

That's after me removing 2 trash bags of rat crap and nesting material hahaha

I'm not really sure how many miles this thing ran, looking under the covers i was surprised how clean it was, I'm thinking due to the leak it was always running low, I was thinking the T4 10W30, but yeah maybe 15W40

Hey oil gurus I bought an old 81 Square body truck Been working to restore it, fired it up the other day, it sounds decent, but i hear a bit of a tick even after i reset the valve lash It had been sitting a while and the previous owner had a massive leak on the passenger side valve cover, and...

Originally Posted By: RedHotOptima does the oil spec look like this?? (see below) This is for my 2.0T GDI Optima (same as sonata 2.0t).I'm guessing they threw the same spec at the 1.6T GDI thats in the veloster you have.. Similar except the optima/sonata is slightly more power dense, 12 hp more...

Originally Posted By: Old Mustang Guy Is that a fun vehicle to drive? I like the styling. I'll recommend Ultra due to the low volatility for the DI engine. For a little less money QSUD would be a good choice. its fun to drive, I bought it because I was driving my 97 WS6 to work everyday and...

sorry guys, it recommends 5w30 (5w40 is also listed)

Got another one needing new oil The vehicle is my daily driver, its a 2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo, with the 1.6 Turbo GDi engine and 6 speed manual. The owners manual says it takes 4.8 quarts of API Service SM, ILSAC GF-4, ACEA A5 or Above As stated in my other posts, we live in Las Cruces...

After looking around locally, Im going to go with the Rotella 15W40 (since its really all I could find) plus the Jeep most of the time is in my garage (which is fully insulated) so I think the winter cold start ups wont be too bad anymore

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071 If you have replaced the rear main twice and it hasn't helped I would look at your valve cover gasket. The valve cover gasket is known to leak down the back of the engine and look like a rear main seal leak, its also what usually coats the engine in oil when...

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum Originally Posted By: captainofiron Here is a good one for you guys to consider the vehicle is my 1991 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L 4x4, it has 297K miles on the odometer,engine is original and runs great. Im not sure what the owners manual says about the oil, I bought...

I think Im going to go with a 10W40 for the summer and drop her down to a 5W40 in the winter. here in the high desert we have hot 100F+ summers, and cold subfreezing winters This one time I was hitting the trails, and my oil pressure sensor exploded and as soon as I saw the pressure drop to...

Here is a good one for you guys to consider the vehicle is my 1991 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0L 4x4, it has 297K miles on the odometer,engine is original and runs great. Im not sure what the owners manual says about the oil, I bought the vehicle used and it didn’t include any paperwork As stated in...

Originally Posted By: zerosoma Originally Posted By: captainofiron the vehicle is our new to us 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L v-6 AWD, it has 46K miles on the odometer, First off, good job on scoring a Santa Fe. I know what my engine likes even though it's not the same engine as yours (mine is...

yea I keep hearing about the OEM filter, I actually read a TSB for the filter in my Veloster Thanks for the tip on the valve cover nice to get feedback coming from owners of my exact vehicle