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The well known issue with buying auto parts from China is that the risk is probably very high of them being counterfeit. But my initial concern was about engine oil. I wasn’t really sure or had any knowledge of it coming that far, that even oil can be counterfeit. What’s next? These days you...

Thanks for all warnings and comments. Checking out Amazon now instead. Hopefully there are no fake Valvoline oil sellers there.

Wonder if this is a legit oil from Valvoline in the US? Being shipped out of Hong Kong…...

Anyone here having email contact info to Valvoline customer service?

Originally Posted By: ShotGun429 I Build alot of top tier Race engines here at the Speed Shop, I would like to Add This: ("VR1 synthetic is basically Synpower with extra zddp and blue dye"), We have had very good results with this product, Would reccomend highly. Gregg Are you using the VR1...

Originally Posted By: A_Harman There are three types of Valvoline racing oils: VR1 conventional, VR1 synthetic, and NSL (Not Street Legal). I've seen NSL in well-stocked parts stores that cater to racers. The NAPA in Battle Creek has it. VR1 conventional is basically VWB with extra zddp. VR1...

Thanks for the lead. I will try Napa in Battle Creek for that Not Street Legal oil.

If it is obsolete, is Valvoline providing a substitute?

I am looking to buy Valvoline SAE 20w50 Racing Oil - Not Street Legal. I realize it has the Valvoline number VV851. Is this oil still available or is it obsolete these days? Have read some places that this is a synthetic oil but I believe this must be wrong. Any leads or comments appreciated.

So, engine is originally a dry sump type race engine. That will probably have influence on the sump drain back issue? And the original oil spec for engine was listed as 20w50, but back then it was none synthetic. Are we still at the 0w-40 Mobil 1? Or perhaps Mobil1 15w-50?

Originally Posted By: A_Harman I wouldn't be excited about using 10w60 in a turbocharged engine. Oils that have that wide viscosity spread contain a lot of VII polymer. It is the VII polymer that cokes when exposed to the high temperatures that turbo bearings are subjected to on a hot shutdown...

Originally Posted By: HangFire Originally Posted By: jllgd And bottom line is that it MUST be synthetic? Because of the twin turbo application? If you have a post-shutdown oil pressure maintenance pump and an in-line oil cooler before the turbos, you can pass on the synthetic. The problem...

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8 If it's a typical street rod it mostly cruises easy, with some occasional bursts of full power. That is EASY, and thus use thinner oil. M1 )w-40 wins here because it is easy to get, well priced, and exceptionally stout. It's a very light 40w, but very robust at...

It's a Rodeck aluminum race engine. What about the Castrol Edge TWS 10w-60? Imagine engine is to be run in high ambient temp areas. I see some discussions that concludes that the ambient temp does not matter. Not sure if I fully agree to that but any suggestions are appreciated.

Please accept my apologizes if this has been replied to before: What engine oil type and grade is generally recommended for a twin turbo applications these days? Engine is above 600 hp and is a 6 liter v8 aluminum block etc. Should I go with mineral oil or synthetic? I am afraid of switching...

Here are the specs: API SJ/SL/SM/CF ACEA A3/B3 ACEA A3/B4 Approvals: VW 505.00 MB 229.3 Porsche Special Oil List

Wonder if anyone have any experience with the new Mobil 1 5W-50 Peak Life engine oil? Previously I have always used the same synthetic oil when it was called Rallye Formula. I believe the Peak Life is a substitute for the discontinued Rallye Formula? Was recently in contact with Exxon Mobil...

How much should you expect to pay to have injectors done by a pro company? Would there eventually be any docs to certify the results/flow? Thanks!