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2002 BMW M3. Mahle Filter. Castrol Edge Supercar 10W60. Risoline Nanoprime additive.

I wanted to try the fram Ultra or Titanium filter but I've seen issues with the Black Fram endcaps. Now I see Fram removed the metal backing?

Substantial. I paid like $17 for it including $5 off and a 25% discount. Apply those same discounts to a MANN filter and you pay like $6. I'm basically paying for the reinforced filter media which I'm ok with.

I buy it with the advanced auto speed perks and coupon codes. So I get it for cheap enough to be worth it. I only buy from AAP online or with the app so I can use discount codes.

I've had good luck with this filter on the N54 135i. Made in Germany with the same end caps as the OEM Mann filter. I like the reinforced filter material. If they start making one for the M3 than I'd use it too. Currently using it with Royal purple HPS 5W30 and risoline nano prime. Thanks for...

The battery is good. I've done numerous tests on it and it starts the car just fine. The issue is its not charging at idle. I think it may be my harmonic balancer that's slipping. R53's are known to have [censored] harmonic balancers.

I have a 2005 Mini coopwe S, I installed the Scangauge 2 into the obd 2 port and my voltage while the car is running AT IDLE is at around 12.2 with the a/c on. If I turn all the loads off than I get to about 13.3-13.5 volts. If I turn on ALL the loads than it will get as low as 10.3 volts. When...

Perhaps. I'm not complaining.

Thanks

Just to be fair. I'm using this Amsoil Z ROD oil because of the high levels of Zinc among other reasons. Because I tried other oils like M1 0W40 and after a while my lifters started tapping very loudly. Keep in mind I use 0W40 in my BMW with no issues. I believe the Seafoam unstuck the rings...

My OCI has always been 5k miles. Always used synthetic oil. Mostly been using Shell Rotella T6. It's a great oil but now I think I don't need it now since I don't track my car. Yet. Or don't have any forced induction. Besides I like how much easier it is to blip the throttle with the thinner...

I did not, I do regret not doing so AFTER I did it. I think it's because I thought this wouldn't work. So I didn't want to waste any time. I know this story sounds like some advertisement for seafoam. But I'm just really surprised that it did this well. I knew it was going to do SOME good...

This is on a 1996 Mazda Miata with about 165k miles on the engine if the odometer is to be believed. Ever since I overheated my engine I've been going through a gallon of oil every 4k ish miles or so. A literal gallon. Of Shell Rotella T6. So basically I'd buy two containers of T6, One for the...

Husqvarna HU725AWD Out: Briggs and stratton factory fill. In: Royal Purple 10w30

1996 M-X5 Miata. 1.8 Out: Mobil 1 OW40, Mobil 1 Extended performance oil filter. In: Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w40, K&N Oil filter.

And the majority of the country who voted and kept him in office. Believe me, I lived in the second most 'anti Chavez' location in the whole country. 'El Trigal' in the city of Valencia. They are all rich people who live in their nice large houses and rarely leave their 'social circle' to see...

My engine has been up to 250 degrees once before I shut it off. Is the block ruined? I consume NO oil and NO coolant.

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---time-sert-kit-for-m52tu--m54-p2920.aspx They do have the kit. And there is a guy on e46 fanatics running on boost 26psi I believe with stock cast iron internals. Mine are forged however. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=993935

I have a 1999 BMW 328i and I was curious to know what could be done to strengthen the threads on the aluminum block. What would happen on these engines is that with F/I and an iffy tune the cylinder head would rise and rip the threads out of the block. (If using Arp hardware.) Now this can be...

UPDATE: No Problems at all. Still clystal clear with NO condinsation.