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Originally Posted By: Juelz Originally Posted By: Slacker I have a 1990 Integra with just a hair over 250,000 miles on it. I run NGK plugs and wires with factory cap and rotor. I will be doing my 2nd timing belt change this fall, 2nd owner. It will get Honda belt, water pump and tensioner along...

Is that the ABS cable?? Looks to me that it has come loose and caused the damage. If so, I doubt they would warranty the repair.

I have a glass baby bottle that has Oz. marked clearly on it that makes it easy to measure out the exact amount needed.

Originally Posted By: Pete491 also do you guys recommend rtving sharp corners for the valve cover gasket my chilton manual has no mention of rtv for the valve cover just for the oil pan gasket. YES. I know if I don't seal the corners on my Acura it does leak.

IF you have to replace the valve cover again try running the car up on ramps to get it to a little more comfortable working height.

Any chance you have a dirty cabin air filter? No restriction on the condenser coil, ie. piece of paper sucked up? High head and low suction is usually a sign of a restriction of either air flow or in your metering device.

Cannot help you with the bearing information you seek but if your Subaru is an L trim, you may want to find a rear end from an S trim. It will have limited slip.

I have a 1990 Integra with just a hair over 250,000 miles on it. I run NGK plugs and wires with factory cap and rotor. I will be doing my 2nd timing belt change this fall, 2nd owner. It will get Honda belt, water pump and tensioner along will new oil seals. I expect to see 400,000 miles out of...

I have the HF jack you've got and like it very much. The foot lever comes in very handy to get the car up some so you can then use the handle if your lifting point is far back. The only way this jack could be better is if the saddle was a little bigger. Have you tried driving your car onto ramps...

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5t...replacment.html Doesn't look too hard. I would use a rubber gasket instead of the paper and sealer he uses. I have used Aisin pumps as they are said to be an OEM supplier to many Japanese Mfgr's.

I'll agree with RiceCake, it's the cabin air filter. Unless the car's been in some kind of front end wreck and damage was done to the AC system, then it could be low on freon or have a bad component.

A set of car ramps will get the back end up high enough to get an impact under to take the blades off. Install by hand though! I use a belt sander to get my blades close then finish them off using a file.

Originally Posted By: steve20 I have NEVER heard Tuff Torque and bulletproof EVER mentioned in the same sentence K92 in my Deere 455 is pretty close! The K46 has given this company a bad rep.

Originally Posted By: RD400 Also check that your vents are receiving outside air and are not set to recirculate in-cabin air. +1

Originally Posted By: mechtech2 Originally Posted By: Trav Heat it with a torch, use some PB blaster or Kroil let it cool and repeat a couple of times to work the oil into to threads, then use a either a multi spline or straight easy out. The straight or tapered easy outs must be hammered in...

Not sure about the oil but it looks like your accessory belt is loose.

I would run a compression test.

Why not invest in a Scangauge and see where your losing mileage?

I like the new Subaru Crosstrek.

Originally Posted By: mpvue 2 ivy league degrees and she isn't self supporting yet? X2