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Lots of problems with that setup....put it on the hub and measure runout...mark your high spot and zero point, then re-clock on the hub and measure again. If the high spot and zero are the same in the second test, then you've got an accurate measurement...if not, the hub is adding to it.

The Amarok is bigger. That looks like a Saviero

If that were the strategy, why not just stick with the single stage cheap sensor and tell you to get to the workshop when the single stage wears through? Does the system work as it was designed?....doubtful...after all, we're talking about BMW here. Intention and execution are 2 different...

Only thing I can think of is that it causes a higher than usual speed differential that the syncro has to sync....which would cause more wear and possibly overheating of the syncro ring. Kinda like how it's hard to downshift into first unless you're just about stopped....the syncros are not...

This is for the CBS system (condition based service)...the first stage will not trigger anything, just acts as a waypoint for the monitoring system....the second stage doesn't trigger anything either. The system knows that between the 2 stages are 1mm of pad wear, and it knows how much is left...

Here's the guts of a BMW 2 stage sensor. There is about 1mm between the stages.

Wagner has gone through several different ownerships in the last 15 years, and friction material (with the copper free initiative) has also changed multiple times over the last 10 years. Nothing is the same as it was.

Don't retard the timing...a properly performed emission test will check timing as well, and fail you if it is out of spec. Since you have no tools, and really not much knowledge of this kinda stuff...I think you'd be money ahead taking it to a shop who can properly diagnose and repair the...

At the dealer, we'd perform the rear brake clean and adjuster at 15K mile intervals. They usually didn't need more than a few clicks. I'd say 15K-30K is a safe interval. Rarely to self adjusters actually self adjust properly. If it has a hand operated parking brake, I use that as a gauge...

Left hand drill or EZ out isn't getting out a rusty broken bleeder. I do these all day...have about 7 of 'em on the bench to do today. The only way I've found that works is to first blast the part to clean as much of these area as possible, then weld onto it. Sometimes you can weld a nut to it...

Shims, in brake pad speak...refer to the "shim" mounted to the steel backing plate that isolates the caliper casting or the piston from contacting the steel backing plate. There have been many types over the years....the cheaper pads use a painted piece of steel shimstock which does nothing...

Uh oh...you found me

That wasn't a shim at all...it was just friction material molded to the backside of the backing plate too. Kinda dumb, but cheap....that's why they did it.

What number do you call? lol. They specifically state that they are not available by phone. All communication is through their site email. They have no customer service

If it's a 3rd gen tacoma, toyota had an updated belt to solve a noise issue....there are 2 OE part numbers. The more robust unit is probably the updated part, while the aftermarket just uses whatever stock they have and makes it the correct length (ish).

That's significant. Rotor runout shouldn't be in excess of 0.005" or so on the back of that truck.

You'll notice the cutouts in the shims for the inner pads. The idea is to reduce the leading edge bite of the brake pad...for example, if we have a leading caliper (mounted forward of the spindle), the cutout will be on top. This is mostly for squealing/pad chatter issues. Before shims on pads...

The single sensor pad goes in the inboard position IIRC....the bracket is such that the sensor will only fit on either the top or the bottom, I can't remember which. Just try the dual sensor pad in both the inboard and outboard position and install the single sensor pad where the dual sensor...

EPDM rubber absorbs petroleum based oil and swells, causing all kinds of issues. Once this happened, there's no flushing it out and salvaging anything rubber that touches fluid. The only acceptable repair at this point is to replace everything with rubber in it that touches brake...

I was the tech support guy for Centric for 18 years....when First Brands bought us, they went to some stupid call center software and looped in a training guy from Raybestos (when they bought Raybestos a 6 months earlier, they fired the 2 tech guys and one of the training guys, then made the...