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2003 Toyota Tacoma reg. cab 5spd manual 4x4. 99,000 miles Changed out what I believe was the factory fluid for Redline Racing Oil's Shockproof lightweight. Specs call for 75w90 GL4. I was experiencing notchy shifts. Also changed out the transfer case which specs 75w90. This stuff is awesome in...

the best diff fluid for me is the one that is changed frequently. Since I have a 4x4 and actually use it for that purpose, it is subject to be contaminated by moisture. That being said, I just put Redline shockproof lightweight in the manual trans and transfer case, and since I had a pint left...

because they are disposable?

Moss-Magnuson act prevents them from voiding your warranty if the replacement fits the bill. In my case, it EXCEEDS Honda specs (Dot 4 vs Dot 3) in every way and costs less. IIRC American Honda Corp. doesn't manufacture any fluids, just cars. Just like Motorcraft. Just like Goodwrench/Delco...

hmmm sure I necro'd an old thread, but just to say that there is more to the 1-man brake bleeding market than just these two (arguably) overpriced tools. 1. speedbleeder fittings 2. the Vacula 3. the HFT knockoff of a Vacula http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html I chose...

awesome pics! I miss riding w/ my kids and this brought back lots of memories

auto-trac = tinted synthetic mercon/dextron with a little extra friction modifier in it for the clutches in the transfer case. I would say any synthetic ATF would be an excellent replacement at a better value.

1. fluid change 2. see number 1

1. Buy a vaccuum 1-man brake bleeder kit 2. vacuum disgusting fluid out of master cylinder 3. bleed all ancient disgusting fluid out of all 4 corners 4.install new friction linings. 5. drink cold beer that's how I make sure my cars stop as well as they go. The vac tool I use is the one that...

China.

who shops at NAPA? I order my parts online from Amazon lol. Last brake job I bought Wagner quietstop pads and shoes AND Centric OEM-quality front rotors for $80 shipped. That is enough to make anyone quit shopping the parts monkey houses.

Also on a related note: I recently purchased a used Honda Odyssey EX from a friend to augment/potentially replace a Suburban that my wife HAD to have. At 14.5 MPG and $3.80 a gallon, we are hurting every fill up. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the 'Burb, but it's killing us when she drives it to...

I would do what you can to repair the truck in an economical way (ie: DIY labor is free) and remember that parts cost less than a truck payment. I have a 1994 Mazda (ranger) B2300 with 217K miles on it. It's probably not worth a $1000 on Craigslist, but it's a decent little truck with brand new...

BTW you can have a wet clutch even if you have a CVT as is the case in the Rhino SxS....the belt drive drives the wet clutch and then the driveshaft in the Rhino

Yep, synthetic is esp good at cold temp pumpability and with the tiny little oil pumps on most [censored] bike and atv engines, that's a good thing. We use 5W40 in my Dad's Rhino year round, and along w/ some water-wetter in the radiator, it much runs cooler (esp behind a full windshield!) and...

yeah here locally we can get 3 gallons of Rotella T 15W40 for $27 + tax. Don't think I am wasting my money esp when you have frequent OCI's (best practice w/ a wet clutch and shared sump)

I do 15W40 Summer aircooled 5W40 winter and watercooled

greased lightning spot treat and then pressure wash?

Yes. With ST, at least you know it's walmart's buying power and pressure making the product cheap and not the cheap filter making you spending advertising dollars to make more cheap product

I use it in air-cooled dirtbikes and I have to say it's one of the TOUGHEST synthetic oils I have ever used. Remember, in bikes, the transmission and engine share the same oil. We've never had a problem, and the price in gallons(at Walmart!) is just right...