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Now it's ironically his turn to get the axe ;)

Use any GL-5 gear oil you wish for a hypoid differential. GL-4 is not suitable protection.

Better to replace regularly with an OEM valve than to risk sludging, etc.

For even less money, consider a diesel rated oil like Rotella or Delo. Excellent for OPE.

The one reason you might want to replace the oil cooler adapter is it can eventually corrode through on these OBS and mix oil with coolant. If you maintain your cooling system you may have nothing to worry about, but you can always swap on a air/oil cooler in place so there is no chance of...

Definitely a case for a 60". One less blade to sharpen also!

I believe JG HYtran or a fluid like Rotella UTF (10w-30 visc, gl-4 protection) would be suitable for the hydro side which shares fluid with the second hand clutch mechanism. You can run it in the geared transmission side also instead of 80w-90ep, but I would base that on how hot your operating...

Redline also makes a PSF that is apparently a suitable replacement. Like mentioned above, OEM is definitely amber in color.

I presume the spring in the bottom of the oil cartridge cap is for oil bypass on cold starts, but do these engines have or even need anti drain back valves with a vertical mounted cartridge filer by the oil pan?

This is the transverse model they use in the Highlander and RX350, etc.

I immediately replaced it with a factory toyota cartridge filter just to eliminate the variable.

It may be what you are saying, there is quite a bit going on under the valve covers with the DOHC VVT.

No but I happened to see Molikule recommend Risoline so I might give it a shot.

Apologies, location is the midwest with temps up to 80s and high 90s at times in the summer and winters that have been known to reach -10 or -15 briefly at it's peak but generally in the teens.

I currently have RT gas truck 5w-30 in it with a Toyota filter. Plenty of Moly in RTGT iirc.

It's a 13' with port injection. I don't believe they went to direct injection until 16' or 17'.

I was asking mechanical advice in the appropriate forum, and here oil advice, also in the appropriate forum. :) Thank you again

PCV and cleaning the VVT screen filters under the banjo bolts is definitely on my short list. Mostly I am concerned because the tick wasn't there before a oil change, and hope I didn't inadvertently damage something during the "dry" start.

Maybe a bit? The engine is fairly lower mileage and seems to have just started ticking after a oil and filter change with a Fram ultra cartridge and M1EPHM OW-20. It sounded very dry when started like it took several seconds for the new filter to fill up and pump the hydro lifters up, then...

Has any concensus been reached on any fixes to a tappy valve train in the 2GR? I understand they are not adjustable due to hydraulic lifters. Thank you.