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So, I have this little Echo 12-inch arborist saw, about 10 years old. Up to this point, it's been an ok little saw, however this year it's giving me grief. It will start, then run for about 30 seconds and then quit, almost like I have a pinched fuel line, and it runs out of gas. It will restart...

Yup, Project Farm has been a fav of mine.

I admit, I laughed when I first read this. However I run Mickey Thompson Baja boss AT's and they really pick up the gravel. I do all my tire rotations myself so when I pop off a tire and slowly roll it to the next spot, I flip out any sharp looking stones, does it matter, probably not but it...

Project farm did a nice Youtube test on all of these. Griot's was one of the best if I remember correctly. I have used Torque in the past with great results, I will try Griot's next.

I had a '93 XR650L and currently have a '21. I racked up tens of thousands of hard trouble free miles between the two of them. Do yourself a favor, perform "Dave's mod" to correct the factory lean condition, and run Amsoil 10w-40 full synthetic dirt bike oil. There are enough things to worry...

I've tried all the water wetters and engine ice, I saw no difference on my big bore sportbike, other than they are track approved.

Makes a great drinking game.

I went from Fluid Film, to Woolwax, to Cosmoline. The Fluid film washes off way too quickly, the Woolwax is a sloppy mess applying, the Cosmoline seems to be the win for now.

NEVER EVER fill it to the top, there are expensive emission goodies that will fail, stop at the first auto off click.

Check out Retrofit source

IF your worried about it, use high milage synthetic oil, It contains seal swellers and will help with any minor leaks.

Before I spent that money, I would jump on youtube and watch Project farm's test of the dyi spray on ceramic's. Granted they are not as good, but still way better than wax, and you can literally do a truck in 15 minutes.

I got my first microfiber towel a week or so ago. I cannot believe how well it works. I wash my truck, with the thing still soaking wet, just lightly drag the towel over the entire truck. NO streaks, scratches, and can use on the entire truck without wringing out.

As a Tacoma owner with the frame rust issue living in WI, I can tell you Fluid Film is a waste of time, in fact I tested it on bare metal in my yard it is was worse than just WD-40. It washes off in short order. I also tried Wool Wax, which works well but it's a huge mess. On my new Tacoma it...

My work car is a 2007 Mazda 3, 215k miles and going strong. It replaced a Toyota Corolla which was way less nice to drive. Only work on the Mazda is the normal wear items, wheel bearing, ball joint, steering items. With that many miles that seems normal to me.

I had a hand me down Corolla from my daughter, was an oil burner. I replaced it with a Mazda 3, I currently have 215k on the clock and still strong. I would take that Mazda over the Toyota any day. Much nicer and fun to drive too. I'm even a hardcore Toyota guy.

2007 Mazda 3, 215k miles and still strong. Amsoil at 7k oil change intervals.

OK, so the days are coming to an end for my work transportation. My Mazda 3 has 215k on the clock and it's rusting faster than I can control. Here is a list of my wants and needs, MUST be AWD, even the cheezy brake activated will suffice, preferably not a CVT transmission, and not nickel and...

This is an older thread bull I will chime in. On my Tacoma I went from Duratrac to the Rugged Trek, I now have about 25k miles on them, gravel, rain, snow, mud, and everything in between. About 10k miles are on Colorado's mountain passes, Engineer, Corkscrew, Imogine, Owl creek, California, and...

This must vary from state to state. Here in WI a few years ago a purchased a Toyota Tacoma with a salvage title. I got it from a legit dealer who buys accident vehicles and fixes them. I got a great truck for a few thousand less then I would have been able to otherwise. I saw all the parts fixed...