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In no way, are jeans sensible dress on a motorcycle. Zero protection.

The clutch may use straight mineral oil. Check the lid. I'd recommend Mobil 1 15W-50 for motor oil. Use Castrol Hypoy C for the gearbox and final drive.

I did read what one oil company had changed to once, but I don't remember. Or care. The key thing is that the performance of SM oils is better, however the 'wizards' achieve it. I believe specific add packs are not only proprietary, but also change as ingredient prices change... There are many...

Lightning bug. Hit my visor right between the eyes... Bright green glowing splat about the size of a mini CD...

Originally Posted By: Mike_dup1 Most auto oils now have lower zinc and phosphorus (high pressure) additives in their oils. This was done to increase catalytic converter life in automobiles. Most "motorcycle" oils have a much greater percentage of high pressure additives in their oil for this...

Originally Posted By: Deltona_Dave I try not to get too low on fuel. I come from the old school that if you let the tank get too low, you start picking up sediment Dave Even in the old days, the gas pickup was ALWAYS at the bottom of the tank ALL THE TIME...

A significant difference in the outside diameter of the tire (more than 1/2") will cause the differential to seriously overheat. If the difference is 1/2" or greater, then run at no more than 50 mph, and for no more than 50 miles. Then allow the diff to cool for at least 2 hours, preferably...

M1 15w50, Purolator pure One filter 2000 BMW R1100R

If you need music while you ride, because it stops you getting bored, You're doing it wrong! 42 miles each way, every day there's not ice and snow on the road...

1. Metric 2. Standard 3. 2001, BMW R1100R

I suspect it would work just fine for quite a few oil changes. It's just that in the longer term you really do need more detergency than is built into a 'race oil'. But it's still an excellent oil, and will do no damage to the bike. If you'd 'stocked up' on it, it would probably be fine to use...

Motul doubleplusgood.

Try filling only to the center of the window, and only top up to the center of the window...

ATGATT -- FF Helmet, earplugs, armored jacket, armored gloves, armored pants, MC boots. All of it, if I'm leaving my driveway.

Oilheads aren't run in until about 15,000 miles. Typical Oil consumption, until then is 0.5 - 1.0 quarts per 6,000 mile OCI. @32,000 (and since 18,000) on the odometer, my 2000 R1100R DOESN'T USE A MEASURABLE AMOUNT BETWEEN 6,000 MILE OCIs on Mobil 1 15w50... Where are you filling it to...

BMW R1100R -- 6000 mile OCI on Mobil1 15W50, 12000 on Supertech 75W145 synthetic in the tranny and FD, Because BMW says so.

A good oil for racing is not necessarily even acceptable for street use. Racing engines are not expected to last long compare with street engines, and they get torn down quite often.

How does the weight of the car compare to the weight of the original motorcycle? I'm thinking it's significantly higher... If so it's not surprising for the clutch to slip in the lower gears. That original clutch was designed for the torque handling requirements imposed by the mass of the bike...

Originally Posted By: lancerplayer Here is the thread I first heard about this change in formula on- http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=757459 LOTS of reading, but would like to hear some BITOG members' input on the subject. Many of those guys don't have a clue! Most of them...

BMW says only up to about 83 degrees outside temp, and you should use xW-50 above that...