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I use Camel wheels, mad in Israel. They have many types but the brown and grey wheels work great for most steels. White and blue for high speed steel. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...;_nkw=camel+grinding+wheels&_sacat=0 Roy

The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten. I prefer CDI or Precision Instruments torque wrenches. I have CDI as I sometimes need to torque left handed threads. The PI split beam is great, but only for right hand torquing, I was injured once when a...

I used to do as you except I used wite out correction fluid to mark the nut and the part and put a line on the socket so I did not need to remove the socket to see if the marks were lined up. Worked for Cat for many years doing it this way. Roy

US Army 1968-1971 Berlin Germany 1968-1970, RVN 1970-1971 Wheeled and Tracked vehicle mechanic.

https://www.amazon.com/MICROLUBROL-M-77-...ent+moly+grease 65% moly. Great stuff. Roy

SK has them with the new double tooth ratchet. 1/4", 3/8",1/2" drive and also the standard tooth count with a 3/8" drive in a 1/4" ratchet. Very high quality. Made in the U.S.A. https://sktools.com/shop/drive-tools-sets.html/?SID=4882234d09523bc5f5a1b49b8292553e&cat=39

I use 6 point as first choice unless it is a 12 point bolt. When you grow up near the ocean and with snow you learn quickly that 6 point sockets and box wrenches have an advantage.

Channellock 410 "Nutbusters" pliers if there is room. A good nut splitter also may work.

Take a look at this review of the new Kobalt 110 volt impact by garage journal member Woodstock VA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CY3F1c6aBQ

I use an Autel Maxi Diag Elite MD802DS. Reads all systems on most cars. Also an auto Xray EZ Scan 4000 that I've had for about 10 years and an Actron Brake Scan 9449 ABS scanner. The Autel does more than the other two combined. I'm just a retired mechanic so can't justify anything more.

I have the harbor freight 2.5L version also. I purchased the Lyman basket for it as it made by the same company. It works very good and with a 25% off coupon from the American Rifleman magazine is a super deal.

De-cap, ultrasonic clean-lyman cleaner with lemishine and 1 drop dawn, dry in 170 degree oven then lyman turbo 1200 with treated corncob media.

craftsman C3 1/2" drive with LI battery would do it. Did a buddies front axle nuts on his Chevy 4wd pick up and didn't even break a sweat. Also does my 4wd explorer (225 ft/lbs) with ease.

I have a different view. I started my career as a mechanic at age 11 on long Island. I learned to use a 6 point wrench or socket first. Many of the fasteners on cars and trucks were badly corroded and already partially rounded off due to road salt and proximity to the ocean. The 12 points are...

CDI Dial type torque wrench 0 to 30 in/lb also many other ranges - 0 to 70 in/lb etc. Precision Instruments also makes them.

The only USA prime lead smelter is closing, too expensive to meet the new EPA regulations. There is news on the NRA web site about this. Also Sierra bullets say it will have little or no effect on them as they use mostly recycled lead. http://sierrabullets.wordpress.com/2013/...sierra-bullets/...

signed up this morning.

Look into a Howa 1500. Also known as the Weatherby vanguard. Very accurate, great trigger and inexpensive. 243, 308, 22-250 heavy barrel, fluting are some of the variations available. About 499.00 street price. Made in Japan.

I have these Irwin's. They work great. Available at Lowes also. http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-T...cm_cr_pr_sims_t I also have the Ideal and Klien tools, but the Irwin's are my go to.

I use gojo waterless hand cleaner on rubber/plastic and it has always worked well. Not the kind with pumice, it may be too abrasive.