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With good synthetic oil, a decent filter, and appropriate OCIs, your engine should be fine at 2 qts low. If you work it real hard, then you should not let it drop below the low mark on the dipstick (1 qt low) for various reasons.

It's totally normal for some engines to use a quart per 1,000 miles after they surpass the 200,000 milestone, especially if you stick with the original recommended grade (20 or 30). Using a 40 or 50 weight synthetic or syn-blend will not hurt a high mileage engine. It will help minimize...

Bumping this old thread since I just had this same experience with my 2006 Sonata. Installed a new Trakmotive aftermarket axle (LH) and it shuddered terribly when accelerating between 25 and 40mph. Also had a pronounced vibration at certain highway speeds. Took the car to a shop, and they said...

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson And here I'm all jumping up and down excited about API SX! API SX, the latest in high-tech protection for all types of shafts

Originally Posted By: SR5 Both the M1 oils are A3 rated, which means they need to pass a 30 cycle shear stability test, and "stay in grade". Still my money is on the 10W30 HM, but I really don't know, just a guess. I suspect the same. I wonder how the 30 cycle test you mentioned would...

Originally Posted By: 69GTX A nearly 1 pt "head start" is pretty formidable. I think the 0w-40 wins out in the end, though maybe not by much. Correct, but then the question is this: if the 0W40 shears down into the 10 range, will the 10W30 HM also shear down into that range? Or, does the 10W30...

Actually, from what I've gathered, it is not uncommon for M1 0W40 to shear a lot more than that (down into the 10 range). As an added note to my original post, I suspect we would see a similar pattern between a 5W30 and a 5W20, with the 30 shearing a lot more than the 20, over thousands of miles...

The general consensus over the years has been that oils with wider cold/hot viscosity spreads (e.g. 0W40) typically show a higher % of shear than oils with a narrower viscosity spread (e.g. 10W30). Let's compare M1 0W40 and M1 10W30 HM. Both start with a similar hot viscosity rating, with the...

It's fine to let an SL oil sit for years in temps below 0 F, as long as you remember to microwave it for 2 to 3 minutes per quart before using it. The microwaving will re-animate the elves out of their chilly dormancy, and then they'll get to work quickly to re-condition the oil's ingredients at...

Look out, it's gonna blow! (sarcasm) I've been running M1 0W40 in my Sonata V6 for years, and the owner's manual specs 5W20 through 10W30. With almost 170,000 miles, my engine is running as strong as it did at 20,000 miles.

Originally Posted By: Darris What is the current thinking on ATF's for older Nissans (pre CVT Altima 2.5 2002-2005)? Nissan has backspec'd this quite a few times to the point where I've lost track of which Matic they're at for these older cars, and anyway there'c a pretty good consensus that...

How about this: drive the car into a tree (or a ditch) and then you'll have an excuse to buy a new car so you can stop wasting your time on this. Just remember to fasten your seat belt first! Or, you could enter the car into a demolition derby. If it survives, then at least the body will match...

You could try a 50/50 mix of this stuff with 20W50: ..........

Yes, I agree, Internet forums in general are full of mindless nonsense. And yes, the mindless nonsense does have its place (mostly as a source of entertainment). And yes, when we have the time to sift through the rubble, we do occasionally find nuggets of gold, when we're lucky. I don't see any...

I supposed we could just listen to finger wagging Nanny McPoppins and kill this discussion right now? And that's another thing I see here. How about some meaningful discussion rather than authoritative "I'm right, you're wrong" types of comments here. I'm not proposing doing away with the...

I think it would be great if we had "Technical" sub-forums here, where topics and discussions would follow a higher standard than the general forums. Browsing the forums here usually leaves me with a feeling of deja vu. As I scroll through the posts, I ask myself, "haven't these topics been...

Citing technical documents already referenced here, I'd have to agree that thicker oil does lead to less component wear over the life of an engine. For the average driver, however, the wear resulting from OEM-recommended 20 weight oil will be so minimal over 150,000 or 200,000 miles that it will...

The universal fluids are good, and your car would probably do OK with them, but they won't have the optimal friction properties of the OEM SP-IV fluid. You should be able to get a case of SP-IV from a local dealer for around $100 to $120. They usually give you a better deal when you buy it by...

My old GM automatics from 30 to 40 years ago always had slow and mushy shifts, and none of mine ever failed. Original transmission would still be going strong after 1 or 2 engine rebuilds. Probably because I never did any heavy towing/hauling. I think we've seen more transmission failures...

Check with the local Ford dealer, they might still have a few bottles of the old "Motorcraft SOHC V6 Motor Oil" in stock (the bottles might be a bit dusty though). Or you could try a "High Mileage Ford" oil from one of the major labels. That may work nicely for ya, since it's a '97.