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Well, I just checked and only have part of a jug of Delvac 1 left, so its out. Of the walmart/autozone available oils, is M1 10W40 HM for $26/5qt a decent deal? I can't take credit for the first 200k, but most of that was highway. I'd like to get the engine to 300k if the timing chain problems...

I didn't really consider using a quart in 5,000 miles a consumption problem on a 265,000 mile engine. Are engines and oil so good now that I should consider that abnormal? I've always run motorcraft filters on this, and the other fords I've worked on, with a couple of exceptions when there was...

I've been away from the oil forums for a while, and am not as well read as I used to be. In any case, I've spent an hour searching and haven't seen anyone with a really high mileage 4.0 SOHC Ford engine to compare with. This is the first high mileage engine I've owned that has a fake oil...

So, how often does your son change his oil, and does he clean the filter? And where's the oil supposed to be on the dipstick? A couple very off topic suggestions for your son: A. Don't drive on dryrot! Change the tire yourself. Changing tube-style motorcycle tires is pretty painless and fast...

So, I have a sort of partially restored 1965 black bomber, actually a particularly early one at serial number 1657. Cast into the alumnimum case, it says to use 30wt over 50 degrees, and 20 weight below, and that the oil capacity is 2.3L. It seemsly like everyone runs a thicker oil in vinatge...

First off, thanks for the links, I DID use search, but frankly find the BITOG search feature a bit lacking. It isn't my argument anyway, I've never even met the man that holds the myths in question, and if it was entirely up to me, I would probably let him wallow in his ignorance. I'm merely...

My roommate's dad frimly believe the old urban myth about FRAM+Valvoline=good, Pennzoil=sludge. He has enough of a mechanical and science backround that he's willing to listen and learn, so I want to at least try to convince him that oil and filters have changed in the last 40 years. A. I know...

I concur that 5W40 Rotella would be a good choice. If you wanted to go cheaper, I'd just run 10W30 or 10W40 dino, probably Mobil 5000 or whatever namebrand is on sale. If you want to spend a bit more, I'd run 5W40 M1 T&SUV. Personally, on a $700 truck, I think I'd just dump in 10W30 Mobil 5000...

There is no vent cap, and for that matter, no fill and drain plugs. Gear lube seems to have a pretty persistant sulfur smell usually, so I doubt that the box had regular GL-4/5 80W90 lube in it. The box is horizontally split, so it can't really "leak" out, and the bottom case is probably at...

So, I inherited an older Craftsman (MTD looking) lawntractor for free the other day. Its a 11 HP briggs model with a 36" deck and a 4 speed manual transaxle. After maybe 3 years of year round outside storage, the transaxle would not shift out of 3rd gear, so I pulled it out and tore it apart to...

I thought of using Chevron or Havline 5W30 or 5w20 to thin it some, but that would only be adding Group II+ or III? So, which is better, going to M1 and getting some PAO/Ester involved....or maintaining the same brand? From what I can tell all the 5wxx chevron or havoline I've seen is very...

So, my local wal-mart just did a massive oil sale, and I walked out with quite a bit, including all 9 gallons of Delo 400 15W40 at $3/gallon. The question know is what to do with it! Would there be anything wrong with throwing a quart of M1 0W20 in with a gallon to drop the viscosity a tad...

I just got back a ~6,000 mile UOA (Blackstone) on M1 T&SUV 5W40 with a quart of 0w40 for top up. The analysis will be in the UOA section, and is also here: http://img183.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img183&image=c385262mz.jpg I thought the numbers looked ok, but a viscosity of 86, without traces of...

Is that enough potassium to equal enough coolant to raise the viscosity out of grade? Oh and coolant leaks are definitely a possibility, it is most of the reason I ran a UOA on it...with a 60 degree GM v-6 that has original 1988 intake gaskets, it wouldn't suprise me a bit. I have the new...

Blackstone's numbers: Aluminum 4 Chromium 1 Iron 25 Copper 4 Lead 6 Tin 2 Molybdenum 16 Nickel 1 Potassium 14 Boron 23 Silicon 18 Sodium 8 Calcium 2388 Magnesium 292 Phosphorus 864 Zinc 1059 Viscosity=86.2 Flashpoint=405 Fuel= Antifreeze=0 water=0 Insolubles=0.5 Image of the report is here...

Yes, first run with it, and like I said, 0W40 for top up at ~ 4,000. Previous oil was 15W40 Delo as the final rinse after ARX. Could Blackstone just be off on the viscosity? Everything else but the iron number looked fine.

Thanks for the replies. I was pretty sure that it wasn't a problem, but it struck me as an interesting problem...on thanksgiving even wal-mart was closed, so I was lucky to find the M1. I think Audi Junkie makes a lot of sense about using Mobil DCO as sort of a universal topup oil. It is cheap...

Yes, I normally have a spare quart...however, the car in question uses very little oil, and I had used it in a lawnmower a couple days before and forgotten to replenish it. I'd like to think that it could happen to anyone, and I do normally have oil, ATF, coolant, water, spare belt, spare hoses...

Over thanksgiving I wound up a bit low on oil while traveling, and couldn't find any M1 5W40 to top up with. After checked the 4 or 5 places, I just bought M1 0W40 and used it, but I had plenty of time to think about the topic while driving back home today: 1. I know that all of the passenger...

I would put the odds of an oil related failure, under warantee, on a Honda small engine as pretty small. Even if it did fail, how exactly would they proove that you were using a 5W40? Espicially if you simply drained and filled with brand “x” 10W30 before bringing the motor in. Now whether the...