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Ive given up on Scamazon. Way too many issues and way too much counterfeit junk being sold there.

Ive taken the top off of several of them and just hosed them out with a garden hose. Obviously try not to spray into the motors or controls and let it sit and dry awhile before turning it back on.

If it was me I would either use what oil copeland and tecumseh uses in low temp compressors or Install an over sized filter drier and triple evac it, charge it and send it.

I would call your local refrigeration supplier and see what they say. What ever copeland and tecumseh is using in low temp compressors would probably be fine.

Whats the reason for wanting to change the oil?

I will never understand how the people packing these things think that its acceptable to put something like that loose in a box with just few pieces of bubble wrap or brown packing paper. I ordered replacement fenders for my Ranger. It took 7 times before I got ones that were not damaged in...

Probably a counterfeit like most of the other stuff sold by scamazon. Amrad has a 5 year warranty btw.

Amrad or BMI. Both American made. Rheem/Ruud used to come from the factory with Amrad caps. Ive taken out many rheem/ruud furnaces and ACs that still had the factory Amrad caps in them that still tested fine after over 20 years of use.

Spray paint seems to be lacking in quality in recent years. I have been painting stuff for years now and never had as much trouble with spray paint as I have in the last few years.

I sprayed a lot of fluid film with a 60 gallon compressor. I can't imagine doing it with something smaller. Could you? Sure. Would it be fun? No.

Speaking from experience I would get at least a 60 gallon compressor. Bigger the pump the better. Ive been spraying fluid film and now woolwax since 2012. Started out with a 60 gallon compressor with a 12 cfm pump. It was sufficient but I had to add and air dryer to keep from spraying moisture...

Correct when it comes to the standard 2 valve manifold.

Valves closed at the manifold. If you are hooking a refrigerant tank to your center hose you should open the tank valve after you have connected the hose and then purge it at the manifold.

You should always purge your hoses out. Air in any type of refrigeration system is bad. When you connect your gauges to a system with pressure on it you should crack the hoses loose at the gauges for a second or two in order to push the air out of the hoses. You should be doing the same thing...

I like the blue! Looks good!

My daily driver is my work van and its flex fuel so I'm not worried about E15. Have been filling up at sheetz with E15 88 when I can just to save a few bucks anyway and I don't notice any difference in fuel economy.

Yeah I did about a month and half ago. First time its ever happened to me. I went in and disabled Google Meet after happened.

Surprised they even have any endurance filters on the shelf. All the walmarts around here stopped stocking them last year.

Need a regular pipe coupling instead of the union.

They are junk. No one in the trades has anything good to say about them. Good friend of mine has one and its on its third engine.