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I don't think it has one of those.

Isuzu Trooper 2002, ~100,000 miles. In good shape, runs and idles normally - idles a bit high though(~1000rpm?). I've been fighting an EGR insufficient flow code forever. Replaced EGR, cleaned input and output tubes thoroughly, cleaned TB thoroughly, removed and cleaned intake plenum THOROUGHLY...

Can you make one of those sleeves for me? Lemme know how much I'll send Paypal immediately!

I'm leaning towards stuck rings leading to tons of blowby and high soot loading, as well as high iron wear.. Check compression ASAP.

Probably right about bulk 5w30 oil. I'll call the place where the car was serviced and see if they'll tell me a bit about its history. Pics? Really? It's just a V70.

Car is new to me so I sent in a sample to see how the engine is doing. Happy with the results. But what oil is this? Mobil1 5w30 perhaps? Code: MI/HR on Oil 4000 MI/HR on Unit 115500 Sample Date 9/23/2015 Make Up Oil Added 0 qts ALUMINUM 2 CHROMIUM 0...

+1 Go to TDIclub and learn everything you need to know. This is very common, and in my opinion it's mainly a design flaw. Thicker oils help, but are not the only reason for failure. Plenty of lifter failures on 40wt 505.01 oils too, not exclusive to the 30wt versions (but still say away from...

Wow, this is a great UOA! Ford seems to be doing DI correctly with their engines. Clearly the 10k OCI is very conservative, especially if you top up with 1/2 qt after 5k or so.

Blackstone said it was probably from the leaded fuel. It was our first race and the driver that filled up the gas cans didn't even realize there was such a thing as leaded fuel! But yeah, only about 20 gallons of leaded fuel in there, and none for the last ~75 gallons we ran through it, so I'm...

At least 60 hours of high-revving battering on this Volvo redblock 2.3 engine, along with intermittent months of storage in a field. Oil was in the car for one year, including the ~9 days of racing. We burned about 20 gallons of leaded fuel in the first race, and then none in the subsequent 3...

Interesting idea, seems plausible. What I ended up doing is both fast and slow, basically, intermittently while I was bleeding each of the brakes. So maybe if I agitated it too much I probably did nothing, I dunno. Clutch engagement point was very low previous to bleeding and it's a little bit...

I've seen two methods for getting air out of clutch lines and slave cylinder on newer model Mustangs. Apparently the problem is that the slave bleeder screw is buried inside the bell housing and inaccessible so these weird (to me at least) methods are necessary. #1...

Yeah, it was. I'm trying to decide if these are the original pads and everything. Sure doesn't look like it's been opened anytime recently but they can't possibly be original can they? 243k miles?

To all who said look inside the drums: 10 points. Both sides had shoe friction material falling off, and one side had a couple springs loose and leaky cylinder. Time for an overhaul!

Originally Posted By: CT8 Pull the pan. +1 First things first, manually clean what you can, and where it's easily reachable. Then rely on whatever solvent of choice to remove the remaining smaller proportion of the gunk.

Drove it today, fairly cold overnight and it did this for the first two stops and then it was mostly ok. I will go ahead and open up the rear drums to see what it looks like, thanks for the tips!

1989 Chevy C2500 pickup, front discs, rear drums. Bled brake fluid recently, front pads good, have not opened rear drums so don't know. Normal braking is fine, usually everything works great. But occasionally when I've had to do rather quick hard braking I have found that there is not much...

Yes, forgot to mention new O2 sensor as well. It passed with flying colors, emissions as low as a new car according to the tester guy. Quite an amazing improvement, all the levels were super low. A testament to how well emissions equipment actually works...when it's new.

Failed 2nd test after the tuneup almost as bad as the first test. Ran it over to the exhaust shop and $350 later had a new cat and new Flowmaster muffler. The guy at the shop was explaining how stringent the testers can be so I'm glad I didn't try to do it myself. Part numbers have to match...

Originally Posted By: Chris142 do the plugs,wires,cap and rotor plus change the oil. strange as it sounds clean oil will lower the hc's. i assume from gasses coming from the crankcase via the pcv system [censored], I should have done that. I just dropped it off at the tester.