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OP, This might be a stretch but I would personally attack it with strong, commonly available solvents. Take apart as much of the engine as you can reasonably handle and soak it overnight in a couple gallons of solvent. I personally recommend soaking a few gallons of chlorinated solvent (i.e...

I have an old Kawasaki bike designed in the late 80s with the valves set ~15% looser than spec, and it clacks like a MOFO with Mobil 1. However, it is almost dead silent with Redline 20w-50! I literally sit on the engine so I can hear every little sound perfectly. I've had a similar experience...

A guy I know used to drive 90,00 miles a year and put would buy cars for $200 and drive them until the wheels fell off. I think that specific car (Geo Metro) got one oil change ever. Do you think it was synthetic? I don't think so.

Think about it this way, do want a black engine or black oil? Pick one.

15,000 miles or one year. The oil manufacturer Redline officially states 12,000 to 18,000 miles can be safely driven on their synthetic oil. I assume you can extrapolate this to other quality streetable synthetics.

It is very obvious that you have never used any Redline oil. You should see some of their colors, not to mention the old green German Castrol which was literally green. Redline 50 weight racing oil is very dark blue when new and regular Redline motor oil is dark reddish/brown out of the bottle...

If you are keeping the RPMS above idle RPM you should have enough oil pressure to be OK. Besides, 800 ppm ZDDP and other AW/EP should prevent lugging wear. Don't worry about it.

He's probably just a paranoid schizophrenic. Ain't nuthin' gonna change, son. May this thread live on in infamy and ever lasting internet humor!

Posting in EPIC thread.

3000 mile oil change intervals are your ticket. With cheap non-synthetic oil, you will minimize cost and get the results you desire. Remember that often times your oil will turn dark quickly because it does a very good job at capturing soot and preventing it from binding with the metal or...

Always remember that whatever additive you add to the crankcase will be competing with the oil for protection of the metal surface. It could be that adding a solvent such as cyclic hydrocarbons and other substituted hydrocarbons which constitute a major component of MMO according to the MSDS...

Thanks for the information. I'm very shocked to learn that it will work for 4000 miles. I was expecting to hear < 600 miles but what do I know. Redline has that magical aspect to it I guess.

I noticed that there is 0.48% Benzylbutylphthalate (BBzP) in the oil. What is the purpose of this thing in the motor oil?

Thanks a lot. Thread subscribed.

Something makes me feel like we are all missing the point by arguing over which oil to use when there are many more fragile, expensive components on that car which break more often than an engine with whatever parts you choose and also require more care and attention (and fat wallet) I'm sure...

Yes, the bike has a wet clutch but it cannot slip no matter what oil is put in there. The clutch has seen 2000 ppm of Moly and now > 2000 ppm ZDDP and there is zero slip. Other bikes may have weak clutches that slip but this one does not. The clutch is truly bulletproof. In other words, the...

Originally Posted By: znode Acetone, wire brush, and elbow grease. Just saw a nice read up on this: Quote: Cleaning may be accomplished using mechanical (abrasive), chemical (heating, solvents, pickling with acids) and electrolytic (electrocleaning, electrostripping) means. Sample procedure...

2001 Kawasaki EX 250 This model was in production from 1988 to 2007 so it is fairly common.

SWIM is nuts. Perhaps he was thinking that the freeway is a race track? I'll post back what I find.

I'll call Redline soon and ask them what they think. Normally, the engine runs on Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 and burns no oil once it reaches operating temperature. Right now, the engine runs perfectly fine and the clutch doesn't slip. Was bought used at 5000 miles from a wrecker and previous history...