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Never heard of naptha in the mix, just methanol, nitro, and synthetic oil in what I've used

Originally Posted By: shrooms Gary, post the pic again. x2, it would be appreciated

I ran a quart of mmo for 800 miles on a new filter. When I cut the filter open there was alot of very hard carbon.

That is tommy chong... Some people on the Ls1 forums don't get it either. I post there. Okay, I ran a few tanks w/o oil, and like I mentioned before it smelled like an old well tuned vehicle. Good smell imo. Now with tcw-3 the smell is greatly reduced. It seems like a pretty drastic change to me.

There's literally nothing in it to hurt the cats, the phosphorus or whatever that was in mmo that had you worried should have been more of a concern than tcw3. I stopped running any additives in my truck. I thought that the exhaust smelled good with mmo, good ole e10 Shell regular is heavenly...

A 96-99 rc/sb, 2wd, lowered Chevy half ton on skinny tires. All of this adds up to the least load on the engine. Engine of choice, vortec 350 on Redline 5w-30. My grandpa and one of my cousins combined got a '97 z-71 extended cab to 380,000 miles on the original engine and trans and it ran like...

Valvoline Maxlife synthetic, or the Mobil hm

I don't think my ohc Honda push mower could live like that. BUT, and these are some of the reasons I got it, it's smoother and quieter (muffler's not just a can with holes) than any flat head mower i've had...

Yeah, I think the point is to just have the spark more exposed to the fuel/air mix. I would just buy the standard. Never know if you'll have clearance issues...

group 3 syn (like rotella syn) is said to be fine. It's really just highly refined petroleum

Rotella still has around 1200 ppm zinc. It's great stuff, use it with confidence. Also, stock engines with mild cams and stock spring pressures don't have cam failure nearly as often as with aftermarket cams and springs or a factory performance cam.

you can order directly from their website for about 10 a quart depending on the exact product. I don't know where is the cheapest though

I am trying figure out which would be better for cleaning out a gas engine in conjuntion with auto rx. On the uoa's i've seen, Rotella syn only has about 950ppm calcium while conventional has 2400ppm. Does the group 3 base stock just make it that much better where the additional detergents are...

heads/cam 6.0 into my truck

Originally Posted By: RCPetrol The QR25 motors are natural oil burners, kind of. Consuming oil in those motors is usually the first step of it on it's way out. Then you will see excessive blow-by and poor compression numbers. I can't tell you how many 2.5l we replaced when I worked for Nissan...

Both of these were my grandpa's vehicles. '97 Z-71 extended cab, Vortec 350. He ran it 330k miles then gave it to my cousin who ran it 20k more and basically gave it away on trade in for a Cobalt she sold a year later. It never burned a drop of oil. The second was his '01-02 1500hd 6.0 4x4...

Originally Posted By: noi8u Originally Posted By: chevrofreak Very interesting varnish formation on the cam lobes. I've never seen that before. Yes, Rotella T Synthetic and Super Tech synthetic are Group III (RTS is actually III+). The Rotella is said to have zero ester content, but I don't...

Royal Purple not only has a cool purple bottle, but the oil is too for an hour! Woohoo! *sarcasm* Brand loyalty is the ONLY reason for your average "knowledgeable" guy's choice, other people choose based on commercials and pretty bottles

I don't know if this directly relates to your question, but I got a bottle of Valvoline vr1 20w-50 for top up oil. They claim it's got like 1200 or more ppm phosphorous and zinc. And yet it's also sm rating approved according tot the bottle. It says something like sj, sl, and sm approved.

Shaving the heads doesn't change the displacement at all. What do you mean?