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And if they exist, can they still be pushed to 10k like so many like to say "synthetics" can??? (meaning compared to those that also use GP-IV & V mixed into there formulas)

What about PAO & Esters??? MYTH - Synthetic motor oils are man-made in a laboratory. REALITY - Synthetic motor oils use crude oils extracted from the earth which go through a synthesis process and use man-made additives in the creation of a final product.

Is there any reason for this in a non-flat tappet application? Do you really benefit that much from extra ZDDP if in a roller motor? Also, thought someone once said that the regular VR1 was not to be used more than 3k OCI due to less detergents? Just wondering the justification for ANYONE on...

just how stout is this oil? I believe it is 30% GP-III right? and a decent amount of ZDDP. is it a 7500k oil or is 5k the limit with no OLM to cover you?

I see folks on here who go from whatever is on sale to syn, to dino and back again, etc...why not stay static for awhile and maybe have a "favorite few" and stick to that??? I wish I could go with whatever was on sale but then when you factor in syn to dino and back and name brand to house...

Wife's car has OLM and it can sometimes get to 12k before time to change. Right now using Pennzoil Platinum and usually change it by 10k...but if I thought a DINO oil or a blend could hang then I might consider it???? Those with OLM and 8+k OCI's convince me you do it repeatedly with no issue

Gotta scroll down about half way: http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533418

on the radio news report they said some recent study showed: 40% have dirty or low engine oil 54% have under inflated tires 29% do not have adequate coolant protection There has been a lot of chatter and "I wonder what...?" questions on here, so here is something concrete...40%!!!!!!!!!!!

I noticed Wal-mart now carries gallons of the 10w30 Rotella syn-blend and it works out to be about the same cost as I pay for Mystik...thoughts?

Okay so I have this Jeep I got with 65k a year & a half ago on the ticker and in good health at the time of purchase. I have since put on some miles (88k now) and the rear outer wheel bearing seals began to leak pretty good on both sides (typical for the Dana 35). When I got the Jeep, I did...

Just noticed today that the oil is half way down (in the "safe" patch) on the dip stick on the '01 Jeep. I did 16oz of MMO the last OCI for the cold weather. Could this have thinned the oil out some enough to make it go down on the dip stick? It usually would take 4-5k for it to go down any...

what OCI on 4.0L Jeep would be safe for this oil? I know many say this is not a 10k oil, and I would never go that long. But I was "thinking" about trying some of this oil next OC and was trying to justify the added costs by considering upping the OCI to 6k or even 7500 and use the larger FL1-A...

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So is Max-life or more importantly a HDEO gonna have ill effects in a non-daily driven vehicle due to moly? I have mentioned this before but do not recall an answer if any? I saw the RP thread and it brought it to mind again.

Okay so now both of my vehicles currently have 16oz of MMO in the gas tank & 16oz in the crank case...we will see how it goes. One MMO fill is paired with HM Pennzoil and the other is paired with HDEO

I saw a comment down below on this vid that suggests that in addition to the "risk" we all already know of ZDDP eventually poisoning emissions systems (if the motor uses oil), that another thing could be affecting valve seats? Probably just some guy's opinion but since I had never hears that...

Since it's SM-rated does that mean it had <800ppm ZDDP?

This thread is only to discuss the use of these two additive in the oil & not fuel or intake...Everyone knows SeaFoam is about the best intake cleaner & MMO is wonderful in the fuel tank. BUT which is safest & best in the oil??? They strike me as similar products that might yield similar...

I am a long-time Rislone user...never had to use it to "fix" anything but I used about once a year in place of a QT of oil at the time of an oil change as a preventative maintenance thing to keep my engine clean...the only motor I ever had to open up was 150k and looked spotless but it had GTX...

The Mystik is a synthetic blend...they both seem to carry about the same ratings, the Rotella dino is obviously cheaper per quart, I am wondering if it is a toss-up for a 5k OCI or if one or the other might have a significant advantage in any one area (TBN, etc...) I will say the Mystik is...