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I have a 96 Miata with 155k miles (~20k miles of which were done at the track). On the track it lives at redline. No issues.

I picked up the Bauer (Harbor Freight) 6" 5.7 amp for $60. I also bought the Mcguire's 5" microfiber correction kit that included the 5" backing plate. I took the head of the polisher apart and swapped out the grease. So far so good. I have only been playing with a test panel, but so far I am...

You guys are quick, thanks! No matter which I end up with I will most likely change the backing plate out to a better branded 5" size.

I am in the market for a DA polisher. Probably won't use it much (1-2x a year) so I am looking for something that is inexpensive. All of the reviews I see are all over the place. Looking for some suggestions. Some that I am considering are: Griot's G9 Bauer (Harbor Freight) 6" 7.5 amp - new...

Honda S2000s also have this problem. Most likely due to the high RPMs, and during track use they can vibrate loose. It is best to use the OE filter and torque them to the correct spec with a torque wrench. They also have a few safety devices that can be purchased from a few different companies...

What is the application?

Originally Posted by JeffKeryk Originally Posted by anthonym6 I just tried a drain and fill on my parents 2013 RAV4. Only a little over a quart drained from the pan. I added the same amount that was drained, but I was expecting more like 3-4 quarts to drain. Is this typical on these? I am used...

I removed both the drain and fill plug. Vehicle never had any shifting issues. Just wanted to do a drain and fill as it was around 60k miles.

I just tried a drain and fill on my parents 2013 RAV4. Only a little over a quart drained from the pan. I added the same amount that was drained, but I was expecting more like 3-4 quarts to drain. Is this typical on these? I am used to doing drain and fills on Hondas where I get more to drain.

Thailand

If CAFE didn't have such a heavy influence on the oil industry and automotive world, what would be the ideal engine oil weight and additive package? Are we sacrificing protection and engine longevity over a small percentage of increased fuel economy? We see many differences in oil weight...

Check to make sure none of the mounting bolts are broken. Might not be the issue, but my zero turn had broken a bolt allowing one of the Hydro Gears to move excessively which made it shudder and cause the mower to buck under the right conditions. Normal mowing it wasn't an issue.

This was a baseline as I have never run a UOA before. I will most likely stick to a yearly change no matter how many track events I run.

1996 Mazda Miata 147k miles 2052 miles on oil including 1 track event (~300 miles). This is the previous blend of Rotella T6 (SM). Using a WIX 51356 filter. Car has been on track multiple times per year since I've owned it (2010). Engine is not modified. I put anywhere from 3-5k miles on the car...

Thanks for sharing! Any photos of the engine bay, or under the valve cover? How many miles are on the car?

Look at the ID of the bumper. The tighter end should be at the top towards the stem. This will ensure the bumper is held up near the top after the suspension cycles a few times.

You cannot replace the Nivomat units with standard shocks as they do not support any weight.

I don't want to take this thread down another path, but if you track your S2000, make sure you properly torque your oil filter and check it often!!! Don't ask me how I know. You can find more info if you Google it. BTW, I use PP and PU. Just not a fan of their rebates.

I have the same mower and had an issue where it would only start with starting fluid. I then noticed that the choke was always open. Fixed the auto choke and it starts on the 1st or 2nd pull.