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Some people don't have the time or the inclination to oil changes themselves (myself included). I don't own a house where I am, and have nowhere to do the oil change. People who live in apartments may not have anywhere to do the work. Single family houses in the neighborhood where I work rent...

It's the left wing idea that, "anybody who owns a business must be worth millions, and must have been ripping people off for years, or stashing money tax free in offshore bank accounts". Usually I just ignore them. I think many places make very little money on oil changes, it's designed to get...

I don't agree with going from a 30 to a 40 weight as it merely masks a mechanical problem and the dramatic rise in viscosity could result in spinning an oil starved bearing that's at the end of the block, or some other such problem. (treatment of the symptom rather than the problem). I used...

Is it burning it? Is it noisy? My 2.3L 1998 Acura CL didn't like Mobil 1 5W30. The lifters made more noise, and it burned it very quickly. It did seem to be good at cleaning however. My car seems to prefer thicker Castrol Syntec or HM GTX (less noise on startup as well)

http://themotoroilevaluator.com This webpage contains the tables I use which are quite detailed. You will need a login to view all the information neatly. You can also filter on According to the 5W20 table, Redline Racing is the thinnest, which surprised me a bit. They probably load it up with...

I blend 15 to 20% now with Redline every oil change and I think my gaskets like the ester that's in that oil. I may be imagining things however. Some of my oil burning has been partially from oil, dried out gaskets

I ran Mobil 1 5W30 and then Syntec 10W30 back to back, and I find I always burn a lot with M1 (twice as much as with Syntec). I would get clouds of smoke on startup that I don't get with Castrol products. There's no doubt in my mind however that M1 is high detergent and good at cleaning, I think...

I got new valve stem seals, and a new valve cover gasket ($720), and the car still burns oil, but probably reduced 40%. I feel that if too much oil is getting down the valve guides due to excessive clearances, then there is nowhere for it to go and it will burn no matter what. I did notice that...

The reason I stopped using Mobil 1 is because it's so thin that my engine would use it very quickly, and it's an expensive synthetic. I would also get a big cloud of smoke on startup that has disappeared once I switched to Castrol Syntec. Mobil 1 is high detergent, so it's probably good at...

I've never had any success with solvent based flushes either put into the crankcase 1000 km before the oil change, or right before the oil change where the engine is held slightly above idle speed. I just can't believe that a large amount of solvent which could wreak havoc with seals, can remove...

I have the Honda 2.3 L and the best thing I did was run Mobil 1 5W30 and a smaller amount of Royal Purple XPR (high additive). In my opinion Mobil 1 is a great cleanout oil. It was in for 2500 km, and got black quickly. It was also thin and brought about rapid burning and a rear main leak. Now I...

My worn 1998 Honda 2.3 L would just drink Mobil 1 5W30. I have faulty valve guides where I always burn a bit on start up. With M1 it would shoot it out the tailpipe unburned when driving around town (perhaps it's the high flash point). This oil got black very quickly suggesting this thin oil was...

I would just keep using the Mobil 1. I have an engine in the same family (the 2.3) and I'm very happy with it. Piston slap noise on startup goes away quicker than with my last fill (QSHM); little or no valvetrain noise once warm. I have a feeling that non HM Mobil 1 is on the thin side amongst...

I have this engine in the same model year, so I feel compelled to reply. Accords had soft rings those model years, and it's easier to stick them than with most cars, and if that happens, it's very difficult to clean them out short of doing a rebuild. Pick an oil that will discourage carbon...

The premise sounds pretty silly to me. I was just inspecting the thing myself at Canadian Tire. I'd sooner pay $15 for the Fram Synthetic, since it contains more than one type of filter media, and it rated for 16,000 km (most folks change their filters every oil change, which might not be...

That is normal oil usage in a Honda of that age. I have a Honda 2.3 L with 165k and it's been burning at least twice the amount you state for seven years. I heard Honda likes to use low friction soft ring materials that are more likely to stick or pass oil over a period of time. My local Acura...

I have a Honda 2.3 and I don't think 5W30 Mobil 1 is your best choice for the track, far from it, I suspect it's quite thin once it heats up. I burned more of that product than with any other oil and it's expensive. Nothing I use keeps it from burning on startup.

My car drank Mobil 1 5W30 as well, like 1 qt per 1000 km. I didn't keep it in the engine any longer than that. Seems the stuff is [censored] thin and burns a lot on startup. I haven't been able to find anything that reduces my oil consumption appreciably, it's a mechanical wear problem.

1 to 1 1/2 qt in 5000 miles is normal oil usage and I wouldn't change weights or brands based on that. I'm lucky if use less than a qt every 1000 miles. I don't think your engine is worn enough to justify high mileage oil with the solvents etc. that they put in it

I'd like to find something that doesn't burn as much, seeing as I'm not interested in spending $2000 for an engine rebuild in a car that's 13 years old and probably only worth that. Synthetics disappear too quickly in my engine for me to use them anymore. My oil gets black quick because although...