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Originally Posted By: Lazy JW Originally Posted By: Gary Allan Originally Posted By: kos It was just one bearing. When I confronted them on this he came back with the reason being from high combustion chamber temperatures. This can't be the case either since the valves are perfect and the...

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan Originally Posted By: kos It was just one bearing. When I confronted them on this he came back with the reason being from high combustion chamber temperatures. This can't be the case either since the valves are perfect and the spark plugs look fine. Zactly...

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL Originally Posted By: kos The unbreakable 4.0L Jeep inline 6. WOW!!!! I don't know where you are in Michigan, but a guy that does a lot of VERY good Mustang engine builds owns fordstrokers.com I would imagine that he would be able to come up with something a lot...

The unbreakable 4.0L Jeep inline 6.

It was just one bearing. When I confronted them on this he came back with the reason being from high combustion chamber temperatures. This can't be the case either since the valves are perfect and the spark plugs look fine.

I kept the coolant, well I haven't disposed of it yet. I'm going to test it tomorrow and see what condition it's in. I think I went for a 60/40 mix, 40% water. If it had overheated so bad, it should be almost straight glycol.

The head is made of cast iron. I toyed with the idea that the thermostat could have been bad, stopping the flow of coolant. But in order to ruin a bearing from overheating, it would have to be over time so I would have noticed a over heating problem. Like I said, I'm waiting on the bearings...

yes actually it was on the intake and exhaust side of the block.. so the header makes perfect sense. If it had gotten so hot to melt the tab at least 260 degrees, and so hot that it broke down the oil at about 450 degrees, I should have noticed. I still had ice on my hood. My heat wasn't...

I don't think it's the cause either. I haven't see the bad bearing yet, I'm waiting for it to be shipped to me. But this is what happened.. I purchased a engine from a rebuilder in Detroit. The engine started to knock all of a sudden and not being a idiot I stopped driving it and towed it...

Does anyone know at what the approximate temperature 10w30 oil would have to reach to cause extremely premature bearing failure?