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Technically, I'm on Wal-Mart oil right now, since that's where I got my T6. But yeah, the overwhelming consensus I've seen among Subie tuners and race mechanics and enthusiasts and the related UOAs is to use a good quality synth 40 wt oil. And when I just went over to NASIOC to look for the...

I've never had more than a trace of fuel. My UOAs have always been exceptionally free of fluid contamination (knock wood).

by all means, post some links!

So the trick is that there isn't really such a thing as a sheer-stable normal 30-wt oil for the Subaru EJ 2.0 turbo engines, especially highly modified ones... they are notorious for shearing 30-wt oil to 20wt in just a few hundred miles, which has caused a multitude of spun bearings and massive...

I don't recall hearing about nickel issues for bugeyes, either. Other than that nickel, it looks good. Our cars don't "need" 40 wt, so the viscosity doesn't bother me so much -- it's still in spec. If it's a big concern, I've had better luck with sheer stability from GC, Redline and Motul -- but...

German Castrol 0w30.

Forgot to say, The car saw routine but spirited action this time (and only 5,500 miles in 16 months) with predominantly city/short range trips, but in the intense Arizona heat. It did one track day, but my wife was driving it and taking it easy.

Just to follow up on this, switching to an OEM paper air filter led to a 50% drop in silicon in my next UOA, but no change in iron. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3518345#Post3518345

Did another interval with Motul 8100 X-cess, though shorter than last time (5,500 vs 9,000). Iron is still a bit high. Switched from a K&N air filter to OEM paper and silicon dropped by half. I poured Rotella T6 5w40 in there this time (actually just 4 qts of it, along with a qt of GC 0w30...

Ferrari spec'ed Agip 10w50 from the factory, which is no longer available. The Ferrari dealer here is using 20w50 dino oil (at least they did in my car), my current (highly regarded) Ferrari mechanic (Alex) recommends the Rotella 15w40 dino oil, and I know Andy Falbo (another highly regarded...

I had been tracking first 308 and then 328 auctions for years and years on eBay, but my purchase kept getting waylaid by life events. I found one locally here in the Phoenix area on eBay in Jan/Feb of this year (moved here almost 3 yrs ago), coincidentally owned by another Ted -- and he actually...

OK, by popular demand... 1987 Ferrari 328 GTS, ~35,000 miles...

I dunno, nothing in this report is making me wish I had synthetic oil in the sump, especially given the low miles this car will likely see (including track miles, eventually). The UOA's I see for 3X8's with Mobil 1 0w40 seem to show excessive shearing, FWIW, though I know it's getting good...

Ahhhh, thanks QP, didn't realize BITOG defaulted to a 1 month search range... D'oh. Now I now see there's even an old 328 UOA from 2006 without the same high copper results (though that oil got sheared to [censored]). In any case, I do have all the service records for this car and it appears it...

From a quick search, this appears to be the first UOA from a Ferrari on BITOG, so history is being made! I acquired an '87 Ferrari 328 GTS earlier this year and thought I'd see how the oil is doing (I was going to do it pre-purchase, but didn't have time). The car runs strong and is a blast...

So I pulled some extra oil from the pan (which was clean, but not surgically clean, so take this with a grain of salt) and had a TBN done... Result was 2.9. So even if there was some contamination, I'm still impressed with the Motul. Ted

Sure, but I guess I was wondering why Fe specifically... I guess iron cylinder liners would be the obvious thing....

It's 8100 X-Cess. And no, I've never needed to add oil between changes. Ever. Even on a Stage 4, and even when I was running track days regularly. Tight engine, I guess. With the Redline, you know, I did a lot of research and talked to race mechanics who swear by the stuff. I wouldn't hesitate...

Haven't posted on here for a long time, but recently got a UOA back. This is a 9,000 mile drain interval on Motul 8100 5w40 full-synth -- it's the second change with this oil, which I switched to at the recommendation of my new tuner (I moved to Arizona). I didn't get a sample last time because...

Depends on time as well as mileage, but if I can do 4K miles on Redline with 10-15% of those miles going WOT on the track and have virtually no oil breakdown (as my prior UOAs indicate), I wouldn't see an issue going 6000 miles on this fill....