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Originally Posted By: zoomzoom how is the torque steer on that thing with so much power to FWD? I vote for redline oil as well. Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette Wow, nice Prelude ! What does it run in the 1/4 mile ? Originally Posted By: webfors That's one pretty prelude... With the mods...

Originally Posted By: torrin ive read the [censored] out of this site since i found it a week ago awesome site. there are a ton of royal purple haters and bashers on here. just wondering if people actually have stories about how royal purple caused damage to there engine diffs or tranny caused...

thanks for all the help guys. I'll be going with redline 5w-30 once I make the switch and stay with a purolator pure one and change it out every oil change

Originally Posted By: Spartuss prelude2perfect- You can get a UOA done through Blackstone Labs. They are also this site sponsor. Here is the link to them: http://www.blackstone-labs.com thanks

Originally Posted By: Spartuss While Motul is very robust for the track, it is probably designed for 1 event use only where after the owner most likely changes the oil or rebuilds the engine. For a daily driver, I would probably not use Motul as it is not designed for the add pack to stay...

Originally Posted By: d00df00d I'd take RLI or Motul 300V over Red Line, but Red Line is good. Don't bother with engine break in stuff. Just break it in as the builder recommends. any reason behind your choices over redline? as requested, here are some pics:

so what should i use for dino oil for now until i make the switch? just stick with honda? should i add some of that redline engine break in? also, what oil filter should i use? should i go with something like a pure one and change it every oc or something like an amsoil and change every other...

Originally Posted By: M1Accord Would it be best to use 5W40 since NC can be quite hot in the summer and that turbo will be steamy supporting the tiny Honda rice rocket? I would go with 5W30 in the winter to help with fuel economy. I also would stick with just full synthetic and regular Purolator...

Originally Posted By: Spartuss Nice car! What year is yours? I love Prelude's, especially a 4th gen VTEC. They are impossible to find as most are rusted top bits or have been beat on to the ground. Back in '93, I almost scored a '01 SH with 40k miles. The owner was a weirdo and the sale never...

correct, it's an h22 (2.2L) with a ton of work done. Im actually living in MN now but, don't really drive the car during winter. I take it out maybe once a month in the winter just to run the motor. Once it warms up in april I'll be daily driving it and taking it to the track once in a while...

I know there is a ton of good information on this site but it is way too much to try to read through to find what I'm looking for. I'm hoping some of you oil experts out there could help me out. I just had my motor rebuilt with new sleeves, forged pistons and rods, and tons of other aftermarket...

haha. yeah, ive made sure to check the pcv system and even replaced the pcv valve

I know its mechanical. This car is only temporary until my other prelude gets out of the shop. I was just looking for some temporary relief of this oil burning and thought arx might help a little. Im not trying to dump any serious time or money into this car since I will be giving it to a friend...

ok. thanks for the info on the amsoil gear fluid by the way. I got it within two days of ordering it and it worked great on my wifes transmission

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I was also planning on doing a seafoam application through the intake manifold and gas tank right before my next oil change. I wouldnt put it in the crankcase though as Ive heard it might do more harm than good on my engine with the condition its in already.

Originally Posted By: Frank For best results it is recommended you use conventional motor oil, without Auto-Rx or any other product within this period. If oil burning persists a second application will be necessary, regardless of mileage. Do not begin a Auto-Rx Maintenance Plan until excessive...

those are the old flak vests and no they do NOT weigh a ton. The new ones with plates are a little heavy but these are quite light but still bulky and uncomfortable. I wore one of these for a year during O.I.F. 1. they wouldnt stop much except light frag and maybe an indirect shot from a 9mm

well I just put on 300 miles with the fresh oil and filter change. I burned another quart even though Im back to the 10w40 castrol gtx high mileage synthetic. Ill post more when I have some better info

well I put on 2900 miles in the second rinse phase. I burned a ridiculous amount of oil on the way up here. I just changed the oil and filter again and switched back to castrol synthetic high mileage 10w40. I will report more in about a thousand miles