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Awesome, thanks everybody. This is indeed a 2wd truck, with plenty of room for a 1218, so I'll stick with it.

Apparently, the current 'spec' filter for my new truck is a PF454. However, it looks like the PF1218 also fits, and is a MUCH larger filter. Does anybody know where I can find specs on either of these filters? Could there be a difference in bypass valve settings? If there a negative reason for...

Originally Posted By: Rand Well I only paid 30 for the ebc pads and I wasnt too impressed with akebono on the 2013 subaru. I was considering beck/arnley but they had an additional 2 day transit time. BA is just a generic brand that re-boxes either OE or (typically, at least) high-quality parts.

Originally Posted By: exranger06 Originally Posted By: Rand any opinions on ebc greenstuff? I had them on my Ranger. Worst pads I ever used. They squealed loudly and terribly (yes, I used anti-squeal compound). EBC says that's normal and it goes away after the pads have broken in. It did...

The parts stores sell house-brand pads because there is massive markup. Oreilly sells Wagner, and a few others have misc. The better name brands are typically left to the wholesalers for shops to use. The best parts, in general, are usually only available to specific suppliers.

I've ran a number of oils in my M52 drift car which just rides the rev limiter pretty often. Castrol Edge 5W-50, Rotella 5W-40, Motul 5W-40 have all suited me well.

Originally Posted By: fdcg27 A diesel oil does well in a diesel engine? Who woulda thunk it? LOL! I'm guessing that you got this oil for around .25/qt net last year? I'd say that you got a steal based upon how well this stuff works in this old and well used Benz. This looks like a good choice of...

Yup, as others have said run the same oil in both cars. They're the same engine family, pump, bearing design etc.

I assume? I've not looked at it to be honest.

First sample of my own oil from my '98 E300 TurboDiesel. ~240k miles on it. This is Rotella T5 10W-30 and seems to work VERY well. 0 make-up oil on a 5k mile change interval, and was ~1/4 quart or less down when I changed it. My drive to work is 7 miles each way, and the car sees lots of short...

Just wanted to update. Got my first sample back at ~5k. My drive to work is 7 miles mixed driving, with lots of short tripping around town during the day and lots of WOT on a chipped ecu.

Originally Posted By: Garak That's not so bad then, price-wise. Is this simply marketed as an SN/GF-5 product, then, rather than in competition to something like VR-1? Correct. This is there new line of 'regular' street car oils.

Originally Posted By: Garak Now, I know that not much can be seen from a VOA, but I'd like to know how VP distinguishes this 5w-30 from any other 5w-30 out there. A TBN of 5.9, and GF-5 levels of phosphorus? And, I know they aren't selling this for $3 a quart, either. I paid less than that for...

There.

EDIT: That didn't remove my personal info....hold please [censored] thats easy! Thanks.

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL Originally Posted By: KenO Originally Posted By: Gubkin Very big pic Please decrise size I'm pretty IT savvy. I'm not very good with MS Paint. Halp?? Use the snipping tool to capture if you can't export it to JPG. Snipping tool? I'll try converting it to...

Originally Posted By: Gubkin Very big pic Please decrise size I'm pretty IT savvy. I'm not very good with MS Paint. Halp??

I can't figure out how you guys post a nice clean VOA, they always show up as .pdf's

Yup. The phaser problem is 100% caused by oil starvation TO the phasers. Thats caused by the [censored] stock oil pump that leaks at higher revs, and the terribly designed timing chain tensioners that also leak. As soon as it gets ticky do a timing chain refresh with enw tensioners and you'll...