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Ck when you turn for the knocking intermediate steering shaft. There is an updated shaft available. (May just be 1/2 tons?) Also the gage clusters are prone to have problems. Other than that, pretty solid trucks.

I just hit 1800 miles, and I realize that I have both problems. The inaccurate tach reading, and the high idle tach reading you are talking about. Not only that, my fuel gage, which never was the bastion of accuracy now won't read over 1/2 tank when topped off. Back to the dealer.

To have the outside and interior looking pretty nice, it's odd that the heater core is bypassed, horrible edlelbrock valve covers. On the flip side, it is a Stingray. If the price was right...

I echo the sentiments on the Cruze. 93 octane pays for itself in my case, especially in mostly highway driving. But it's not spec'd in the owner's manual.

The local dealer is great. Kawasaki is the one throwing stuff in the hope that something sticks.

The Ninja 250 forums say it's the electronic control unit. Haven't given them a second shot at it yet. Don't much like my bike being used for a guinea pig. But I don't much like seeing over 10,000 rpm at 70mph, either.

The reason I ask is that I'm having a somewhat similar issue. After riding a few minutes my rpm slowly starts climbing at steady speeds (on the tach only) when it's warm outside. The clutch is not slipping and the engine rpm is not actually climbing. Kawasaki (not the dealer) diagnosed it as...

In the case of a domestic, you still pay shipping (thanks UAW!) If you buy a ZR1 Vette, there is an option to help assemble the engine. There are not tours or admission to the Camaro factory. If you work there, you can get fired for taking pics.

I have a '12 Ninja 250 as well. Is the rpm going up when hot, or just the tach reading?

Also, oil companies have been know to change formulations with no notification. Castrol (for some reason) has helped with oil consumption in many cases for me.

The best stuff I have ever found is called Ru-Glide. Lasts a long, long time. I forgot who makes it (one of the oil companies, Shell, Citgo, ect). A few parts stores carry it.

Aah, the PCM reflash that will stop it from going in MDS as often

5.3 engine gets oil change every 4k, no matter what oil you use unless you want probs with AFM. Avalanche is a good truck. I think the image only shows in the nav screen. A good protectant and keeping wax off of the black plastic keeps it nice and black.

Find out what legal % is and stay behind it. You don't want to be getting pulled over all the time. It's a pain in the rear, and can get real expensive. Many places will put on illegal tint and leave you to deal with it.

The shorter OCI is a must. 4500 miles is a max. 4000 is much better. If it's using no oil, you're probably ok. May I also suggest only top tier fuels? A few cents more a gallon, and worth every penny.

Most owners (present company excluded) have about as much business with a TSB as someone with a headache having a manual on brain surgery. A law saying TSB's must be made available doesn't mean your local dealer is going to stop everything they're doing and print a list of every TSB that might...

The flat rate is about as much a scam as Maroney stickers. If you can find someone who will repair your car for less time than the flat rate, good for you. We congratulate those who don't pay MSRP for their cars, so what's the difference? Somwhere, somehow, "profit" got to be a dirty word in...

At 13,000rpm, I barely notice them

No warranty was affected by bankruptcy.

Found what seems to be the bike for me (for now). 2012 Ninja 250. Riding position great on back. Almost vertical seating position(slight lean forward). Plenty of power for the kind of riding I want to do. It came down between the Ninja and Honda's CBR 250. Both great bikes, the extra...