Search results

Thanks for the suggestions. How much would replacing such lifters cost, both purchasing the parts and the amount of labor hours to do it? I know that labor can vary, that's why I'm asking how many hours it would be, so I can figure it out by the standard hourly going rate around where I live.

The coolant level is good, I usually check that beacause I had a coolant loss problem in the past. Speaking of which, I did have my gaskets (forgot which) replaced about 20k miles ago because I was losing coolant and the engine would overheat.

Thanks for the tip frank. So the only difference between a what I'm doing now and the maintenance plan is the 3oz of ARX? If so, can't I just put some in right now (200 miles after the oil change) and call it a maintenance plan? Like I said, I did 2 clean phases (1500 and 2000 miles) and 2...

Yes I have tried AutoRX. Went thru 2 clean and rinse phases, and now currently running Castrol Syntec 0w-30 oil (GC). I think it's been slightly quieter and smoother since the AutoRX treatment, but like I said, the only thing that noticeably reduced (actually eliminated) the noise was Rislone...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPYkW25o-XQ So that's my little GM 3.1, knocking away. I've tried all sorts of oils, thicknesses, additives. Nothing worked. 'Till I tried a quart of Rislone stuff, and it pretty much made this dreaded noise go away. Even at startup, there was barely any hint of...

I did just like I said in the first post. But the kid did run it for over a week with 1.5 quarts over, which is what I'm inquiring about. Right now it's running the correct amount.

Yeah I thought so too. What kind of problems exactly would be caused by running 1.5 quarts over for an extended period of time?

So I go over to my friend's house the other day and he had just done an oil change himself. He has a 4.5 quart sump, and what he usually does is he buys a gallon jug (4 quarts) and then a single quart bottle and dumps it all in. This time I asked him how much he paid for the gallon jug, and...

Ok well I guess I did have it backwards. I always thought that oil was thinner at startup to allow for better flow and then thicker at operating temps to protect better against heat. Good to know. But regardless of that, I am right to think that a 0w oil is thinner at startup than say a 10w...

Thanks for your response and reccomendation, but I understand that, and I have used a 10wXX oil just fine in New England winters. My question is not what I need/should for winter oil, my question was about additives that help thicken the oil.

So I've had good luck with going with a slightly thicker oil in my GM 3.1 engine to quiet the noises, but I have a whole stash of 0-30 GC oil and would like to use that up before buying new oil. I know that the 30wt GC is actually closer to a 40wt, so that's good. But I just worry about the 0wt...

Maybe one engine is dirtier than another, or you ride one harder. I gurantee you that if you put the same oil for 5000 miles in a brand new car and one with 300k miles that the used oil will not look the same.

Cool thanks. I just recently changed mine to M1 dino less than 300 miles ago, so I think I'll just stick with that for the treatment stage. If it doesn't do much, the next change will be with gtx and another shot of autorx. Their site recommends 2 treatments anyway, so I'm sure it will be fine...

Oh yeah, another thing, I read that GTX startup is no more, so then I should just use the regular castrol, or should I go with the syntec after the 1500 mile treatment?

Yeah, ur engine sounds dead quiet, or at least it does so watching the clip. So yeah, I can't expect it to become like that, but anything, even just a little dampening will help. I just need to ride out this car for another year or so (graduating college and saving up for a GTO), so any little...

Here it is again, yours sound a helluva lot better http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPYkW25o-XQ

That clip sounds great GMan, I could only dream to make my engine sound like that. I think you've seen the clip that I posted earlier right? Did your motor sound anywhere close to that, or was urs much quieter in the beginning? Also, was you clip right at startup, or after it warmed up.

Yup, definitely doing the autorx thing. Sounds like many people have had good experiences with it. Also read over the Chevy piston slap thread a while back, and it seems more people also agree that the castrol syntec oil works better than M1 which sounds the worst (which I have right now)...

Cool, so are these oils (Castrol Syntec, Syntec Blend, or GTX Startup) high in ester and moly content then? Are there any other ones like this? And on the autorx site it says not to use a synthetic oil after th first stage.

Can anyone explain the difference between a single grade HD (30/40) oil and a multigrade (15w40) oil. I'm looking for a better oil for my piston slap riddled car, and I have been advised to do an AutoRX cleaning and then apply a nice HD oil afterwards. I was looking at either the Rotella HD...