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Originally Posted By: daman Every 3 months? somebody needs to learn how to use a clutch, throw outs require very little grease(the cavity is small), crawl under pull the inspection plate off look up in there your going to have grease all over. Eaton recommends every 25,000 miles: - Grease the...

Quote: It is not clear which one your new grease is, the one you are so satisfied with. Is it the Schaeffers 238? It is the 238. Who should I get in contact with to buy more? I emailed them plus a few reps and got zero response. I'm in Winnipeg, MB and there are no reps here. I'm looking to...

Well I just did the first 300 miles on this new grease. I'm shocked at how much better this truck rides and handles. Also put some on the 5th wheel that helps with the handling. It also slid under the my loaded trailer and lifted it up with little effort. I'm sold! I jut hope this stuff lasts...

Just to be clear I'm from Winnipeg. It can hit -35 Celsius here before windchill.

I'd just be afraid of getting moly on the clutch. 100 hours in extreme service sounds really good. My operation is nowhere near extreme but probably worse than most. Any issues with cold weather?

So I shouldn't be afraid to use it on the ujoints? Or the throwout bearing? I think polyurea in the slacks and s cams would be optimal but at what point are we splitting hairs. One thing is that's what trucks come from the factory and polyurea and lithium greases don't like each other. With the...

I've been running Chevron ultra duty for a while. It is the recommended grease for Spicer universals and it qorks well after yeas of issues with other greases. But it doesn't seem to last 4000 miles in the front spring bushings and the steering gets a bit sticky. But im sure everything else is...

Good stuff! Kinda leary on the maxxforce myself, especially since cummins just announced they're going SCR as well. That leaves international by itself. We all know what happened the last time a major engine maker did that.... Anyways, I do like the CGI block, the way they make the...

Is it possible the oil isn't moving fast enough through the turbo? Just throwin' that out there... Maybe the return line is a bit restricted?

Have you done a UOA?

I'm going to go at a bit of a tangent. I think the cj-4 rotella holds soot a lot better then previous oils. What I think happened is the cj-4 rotella "cleaned out" your engine. Soot = heat Change the oil, I'll bet it won't happen again.

Only 10%? I expected a lot more. Seems as though engines with EGR go through the TBN much faster.

Do you find the lower sulfur content of ULSD slows down TBN erosion?

Thanks for the responses. I ended up getting the 0w30. I'll keep a close eye, and do very short UOA's. I'll keep you guys updated. If all else fails, I could always go 50/50 with the two. Cyprs, if that's true, then the 0w30 has much less VII's then the 0w40 correct? So if the 0w40 shears...

UOA's look fantastic running shell 15w40, but I want to go with a thinner synthetic. xd-3 0w30 is 12 cst at 210F I assume it will shear a bit, since esso is known to load up their synthetics with VII's. Run in a 12 litre volvo diesel engine, semi truck.

PGT, the "0" in the 0w30 doesn't mean it gets thin. It means that at cold temps, it doesn't thicken as much as a 5w30 or 10w30. However, it is still far too THICK! It just doesn't thicken as much as regular oil. I suggest you read some AEHAAS writings, he knows his stuff and can explain it very...

so does he make this stuff any more? I know mola wasn't in the business, for a while at least. Would be interesting doing a project on my rig, because the oil temps stay very stable. The benefits of a thinner oil would be very apparent, I also spend about 40k a year on fuel.

I thought bruce wasn't doing any more oil? Maybe I'm confused...?

Wow that's some thin oil!

I'm going to guess non cj-4